Hi Jay,
These are good points you make. I, too, try to keep the car as OEM as
possible, but don't mind making changes if they can be removed without
scars.
Examples in my cars: '72 GT--in the space behind the tail lamp
reflectors I mounted an additional 2-filament light. Now have double tail
lights and brake on each side.
Removed rugs under seats and installed addtional sound/heat padding,
also inside the spare tire well. Cuts the resonance in the car a lot and
makes it more pleasant.
TD-using a stud on the spare tire, made a bracket that will hold a
third brakelight on the spare. No holes in the car, and I find following
cars are farther behind.
Inside the tail light holders (no reflectors in the TDs) where it was
cadmium plated, painted white. Improves the lighting--well, at least I
think it's brighter.
Clamp-on wind deflectors top of windshied. Ugly, but reduce wind
buffeting and make cruising more comfortable, thus encouraging use.
Re-gear back axle, lowers road RPM so engine isn't at 2500 fpm on the
highway. Reversible, should ever the desire strike, as no cutting or
drilling done to the TD.
Both cars have battery disconnect switches, as their wiring is original
and, while one tries to keep it sound, one never really knows....
I think we tend to forget the age of these vehicles when a component
wears out. It helps to remind oneself that "it's only 45 years old and
already the xx thing doesn't work," to keep perspective on how well the
things really do work. And, the big plus if one uses MGs as daily
drivers, is how easily most repairs/replacements can be made, usually by
the owner, at a tremendous saving in time and convenience (no taking it
to the shop and leaving it there for a day) and cost (the $20 motor
mount). Well, considering the time it took last summer to change the
less-expensive rear mounts...maybe that's not a really strong argument,
but they were 25 years old.
Bob
On Tue, 13 Jan 1998 15:42:26 -0500 Jurgen Hartwig
<gt0003a@prism.gatech.edu> writes:
>At 12:14 PM 1/13/98 -0800, John J. Peloquin wrote:
>
>>Dear Netters,
>
>>
>
>>I am continually amazed at how cheap our LBC car parts can be
>compared
>
>>to new cars (or even not so new cars). An example was the price I
>paid
>
>>to replace an engine mount on my wifes 1985 VW Jetta. ONE engine
>mount
>
>>was bas and cost 125 bux JUST FOR THE PART!!!!!! and that was from a
>
>>"cheap" place!!!!! So $20 for an MGB mount seems pretty good to me-
>
>>albeit knowing VIcky B's prices, I'll bet you could get em for about
>
>>half that from some place like Northwest Import Parts.
>
>>
>
>Yeah, I have to side with John here as well. I've learned the hard
>way that it's usually easier to just pay the bill and do the job
>right. I also am not crazy about retrofitting my B with other parts
>non-original. Don't read me wrong here, I'm not saying that putting
>non-original parts is a sin. I figure I could either spend an hour of
>my time retrofitting that Delco alternator or have my original rebuilt
>for slightly more. I also get the benefit of saying that my car has
>all OEM parts.
>
>I found that if I simply replace parts on my car with original parts,
>they are just as suitable and durable. I think many times, a person
>will buy a car, and find that many parts need to be replaced.
>Consider that many times these parts are original and may be 20-30
>years old. If you replace with an equal quality replacement you
>should be able to get a similar number of years. Of course, most
>times, the owner will chalk up the broken part to inferior design or
>workmanship, and indeed occasionally this is the case. But the
>majority of the time, lack of maintenance and age are the only reasons
>for failure.
>
>
>My '70 B is a daily driver, and because of it, I figure I should spend
>slightly more on parts to give me insurance. Let me be the first to
>tell you that I have an extremely reliable vehicle now. Reasons for
>this include my familiarity with MGs now(it took quite a while), the
>resolve to fix the car right, and not being a cheapskate. I drove 400
>miles from Memphis to Atlanta with nary a problem. 7 hours straight
>with only a fuel stop.
>
>
>My fuel gauge works properly; my speedo works as well as the odometer.
> All lights work. SU carbs work fine and are adjusted properly. And
>this equipment is all original or OEM quality or better. Why jerry
>rig when the right part works fine in the first place?
>
>
>Jay
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>***********************************************
>
>Jurgen Hartwig, Civil Engineering, Georgia Tech
>
>
><paraindent><param>left</param>When you were born you cried
>
>and the world rejoiced
>
>Try to live your life so that
>
>when you die you will rejoice
>
>and the world will cry.
>
>
></paraindent>
>
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