I called the auto parts store and asked for the price of COLT shocks. They
asked VISTA and I said no. THey gave me a price and I asked them if they
were Monroe 5877st. They said no and gave me another part #. I then asked
if they had Monroe 5877st they said yes but they weren't sure if they
would fit. I guess I should just ask for the 5877st's. Is this a correct
assumption?
=2E..Art
On Fri, 23 Jan 1998, Andy Ramm wrote:
> Ahem....
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> Greetings all. I hope I've copied everyone who requested this.=20
> Nevertheless, it's on the MGs list too.
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> This is the grand post on converting the rear shocks of an MGB to the
> rear shocks of an '84-88 Dodge Colt. This was originally sent to me by
> Dave Tietz, who used to be on this list, but I haven't seen him here for
> a while.
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> So, credit goes to Dave in his absence for laboriously researching this
> and being the lab rat. (I'd call him the guinnea pig, but I don't know
> how to spell it.) I can say that I have performed this conversion and
> it's one of the best things I have ever done to my MG. Thanks Dave!
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> <disclaimer>One caveat applies: WHAT YOU DO TO YOUR CAR IS WHAT Y*O*U
> DO TO YOUR CAR. I take no responsibility for the outcome of this
> procedure. It worked marvelously for me, you may have different
> results. Attempt this conversion at your own risk.</disclaimer>
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> For the record, I used Sears Road Handler Performance Gas shocks which
> are really Gabriel VST shocks. These are on the stiff side and would be
> great for performance applications. They are still nowhere near as stiff
> as the Moss conversions! Those seeking a smoother ride may consider the
> Monroe SensaTrac or other shock. The car is a 1967 MGB-GT with new
> springs and all new mounting hardware and bushings. YMMV
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> I also recommend using grade 8 bolts throughout and loctite thread
> locker. throughout. That said, what follows is Dave's original post.=20
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> Best of luck,
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> Andy
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> Rear Tube Shock Conversion 02/28/97
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> Background: I wanted to "modernize" my MGB-GT's suspension with gas
> filled tube shocks, and after doing some shopping, decided on the
> Moss-Monroe front & rear kits. After installing both sets, I discovered
> that the rear shocks were way too hard (the shocks are from GM 1/2 to
> 3/4 ton vans, front suspension). The front shocks seem OK.
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> After a frustrating 6 weeks talking to Moss Technical, I was able to
> return the shocks to the dealer. Moss was nice enough, but I don't think
> they really understood the severity of the resulting ride, or they
> didn't get enough complaints on the product (although I know of several
> besides me). I kept hearing "Its a competition product", or "The
> stiffness makes for better handling", neither of which I can accept. I
> have ridden in several Porsches & Corvettes, none of which was as teeth
> jarring as my shocks.
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> I did some research on my own (shock absorber books are a closely
> guarded secret with most dealers & parts houses for some reason). One
> friendly dealer, a local Tire Kingdom, let me spend about 3 hours with
> their book, and I was able to find shocks that have an acceptable
> compressed dimension, a longer extended dimension, suitable mounting
> bushings and are designed for a similar weight vehicle. The conversion
> does not require modification to the car (other than relocating two
> parts) and uses existing mounting holes.
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> The Conversion:
> Disclaimer: This worked for me, on my MGB-GT, and appears to be working
> well after 6 weeks. This is for your information only, and you are
> warned that if you attempt this conversion, you do so entirely at your
> own risk. Sorry, but in this litigious age, I want it understood, I
> ain't responsible for nothing =F7 Dave Tietz.
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> Parts needed (about $40.00):
> =092=092 1/2 inch long, 7/16 fine thread Grade 5 or better bolts.
> =092=095 1/2 inch (6 inch will work) 7/16 fine thread Grade 5 or better
> bolts.
> =094=097/16 fender washers.
> =0910=097/16 flat washers
> =094=097/16 lock washers or use locking nuts below.
> =094=097/16 nuts (or locking nuts).
> =092=09Monroe Sensi-Trac 5877ST Shock Absorbers or equivalent. These are
> from a 1984-1988 Dodge Colt (and may be used on other cars).=20
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> Procedure:
> 1) The old lever-action rear shocks are removed.
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> 2) The Shock Brackets (bottom-most plates, clamping the rear-end tube to
> the springs) are removed, flipped over (so the hole points down) and
> replaced on the other side (left one on right side, right one on left
> side) so the hole is still on the inside, but the bend is down, instead
> of up. Re-torque the four U-bolt nuts securely.
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> 3) With the 5 1/2 inch bolts, bolt the top of each shock in the
> forward-most old shock mounting hole. Use the fender washers on either
> side of the "frame", bolt head in the wheel well. The shock bushing, a
> flat washer, lock washer & nut on the inside of the frame.
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> 4) To be safe, I measured the distance of the Bump Plate (on top of the
> axle, and the Bump Rubber, and found it to be 4.1 inches (I have new
> rear springs). I then measured the distance from where the bottom of the
> shock mounts (the hole that was moved from up to down, in step 2 above),
> to full compression of the shock, and found that to be 4 inches. As the
> shock is mounted at an angle (and will not compress inch for inch to the
> vertical distance between the Bump Rubber and the Bump Plate) the shocks
> cannot bottom out. It would be good to double check your vehicle.
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> 5) With the 2 1/2 inch bolts, bolt the bottom shock mount through the
> hole (if it is "wallowed out", from years of movement by the old shock,
> you can drill a new mounting hole to the rear of the original hole =F7
> which gives even more clearance to bottoming-out). The new hole should
> be a clearance hole for the 7/16 bolt, like 15/32 dia.. Use washers on
> either side of the shock bushing, and lock washers/nuts or locking
> nuts.
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> Torque the bolts securely, I am a fan of Lock-Tite, and used it
> lavishly, both in re-bolting the U-Bolts and shock mounting bolts.
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> Make sure no other components are near the shocks, like a previous
> owner, re-routing the fuel line, or wires or anything that might cause
> wear or failure of a part. On my car, they were clear all the way
> around.
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> As noted above, this is about a $40.00 conversion, and I believe the
> Sensi-Trac to be superior to the 1920's technology Lever Action shocks
> (and more closely matched to the MGB than the Moss kit).
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> For Your Information...=20
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> Dave Tietz
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> Afterword:
> The conversion has now been on the car for 8 months, and seems to be
> working beautiful. This car is my daily driver, and we are at about
> 7,000 miles.
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> Good luck,
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> Dave Tietz
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> --=20
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> Andy Ramm
> A silver face in a tweed world.
> Remove obvious spam filter from email address when replying.
> "What we play is the blues, straight from the delta, and I believe we'll
> make it on that," B.B. King
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> By US Code Title 47, Sec.227(a)(2)(B), Sec.227(b)(1)(C) and
> Sec.227(b)(3)(C), it is unlawful to send any unsolicited advertisement
> to this equipment. A violation of the aforementioned Section is
> punishable by action to recover actual monetary loss, or $500, whichever
> is greater, for each violation.
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