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MG vs Spit

To: mgs@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: MG vs Spit
From: Bill Eastman <william.eastman@medtronic.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 10:18:22 -0500
I know this is an old topic now but I am on the digest and have been a
little busy lately.  Although most here are quick to sing the praises of
and MGB as a restoration candidate,  There are a few points that favor a
Spit.

First,  if for some reason you have trouble in your restoration, no one
will accuse you of butchering a future classic.  Besides, the engine and
tranny could go to a worthy home- a Midget 1500

Second,  when you do complete the work, no matter how much you bodge it due
to inexperience or lack of funds,  the odds are it will still be better
built and run better than it did when is left the factory.

Seriously,  it by restoration you mean rebuilding for daily use, either car
would be fine although the cost of parts is similar between the two and a
rubber bumper B is a much better car than a Spit.  I know that of which I
speak here because I am a reformed Spit owner.  I had a 76- about the best
year of the US 1500's because of the chrome bumpers, no cat, and 9:1
compression ratio- with under 30k actual miles on it.  Nice enough but the
fit, finish, and quality of materials was atrocious.  Also, running over a
dime on the road would cause scuttle shake.  I originally bought the Spit
because I thought that the specs were close to an A and I could not afford
an A at the time.  Just goes to show that a car is more than the sum of its
specifications.

On the other hand, if you are talking about a true "as original I want a
trophy" restoration,  I would recommend you go for an older B.  Again the
cost would be the same but the finished product would be worth more.  Sell
them both and by a pre 68 B.  Or, if you want a really cool car, get an MGA
and be set for life ;-)

Got stuck in traffic last night- 15 minutes of stop and go in 90 F weather.
 The A's temp got all the way up to 195 F.  I can live with that.  The oil
pressure stayed up pretty well although it would drop below 20 when the
idle neared 500 rpm.  This is similar to before the new cam bearings and
rocker shaft so I am OK with it.  The oil leak was not fixed by tightening
the oil pipe banjo.  I am ordering new copper washers today.  I hope that I
didn't over tighten the bolt and ruin my new Moss spin on filter adapter. 
BTW, the spin on adapter makes oil changes easier but it still belches oil
when the filter is removed due to the design of the system.  When I took my
old filter adapter off I found an extra filter element spring up inside the
head.  Someone must have put the spring above the filter at one time but
how it got in there is beyond me.  

Regards,
Bill Eastman
61 MGA object of universal automotive lust

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