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In response to a question about rebuilt shocks, I am attaching a bit of
correspondence on this subject. I have not yet purchased my set of front
shocks, it will probably have to wait for Nov., as I have another MG
project ongoing that is taking longer than expected- as if that never
happened before. I am going to give Peter a try for shocks, based upon
the only lucid explanation I have ever received on rebuilding shocks.
I am forwarding this without Peter's permission, but he promised me a
"tech" article months ago, & hasn't sent it yet, so....
To the new GT owner:
You have become a member of the MG elite, the owner of the best MG ever
built, a thing of beauty. The best looking British car ever built,
including the E types. You are a person of unquestioned good taste.
Forget those "flop top" cars, with all their leaks & groans. On the
other hand, I highly recommend installing a sliding fabric sunroof.
For years, I drove Midgets, & later, 4cyl B's, with never a valve cover
leak. 1st, straighten the valve cover. Over-tightening over the years
usually means a cover that is not flat. Hammer, block of hardwood, REAL
flat surface, etc. Only when the cover is flat, can you eliminate the
leaks. Attach the cork gasket with "gorrilla snot", 3M weatherstrip
adhesive for the unitiated. This is a contact cement & will prevent any
gasket movement, but it is not a "filler", so the cover must be flat.
This works very well with the aftermarket cast aluminum covers as well.
Oil the other gasket surface & the cylinder head lightly. Install the
valve cover just finger tight, & wait a few hours before snugging it
down. I have been able to reuse the same gasket for several years in
this fashion, as it does not stick to the head if oiled lightly when
replaced, & the "snot" holds forever. This was the method used by my old
friend on his E-Production racer that had valve adjustments before every
run. 1 gasket would last several seasons.
Sorry to lump a lot into 1 post, but I only receive the digest.
Jim Stuart
2 V8's, no dollars or sense
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Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 14:49:47 -0700
To: Jim Stuart <jimbb88@erols.com>
From: Peter <nosimport@mailbag.com>
Subject: Re: lever shocks
In-Reply-To: <35945DAD.96976FA2@erols.com>
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At 10:49 PM 6/26/98 -0400, you wrote:
>I own 2 MGB's, a 1977 Roadster, & a 74 GT. Do you carry shocks for these
>cars, & if so, how are yours better than other rebuilts available, such
>as from Apple Hydraulics?
>
>Thanks
>
>Jim Stuart
----------------------------------
Jim,
Thanks for your inquirey re: rebuilt shocks. To save my fingers (just
got
back from a week long vacation and am trying to catch-up) I'll attach below
a response to someone who asked IF lever shocks can be rebuilt. I will be
including a polished version of this on our page soon...... I hope.
Prices in US Dollars excluding freight are: Front shocks $59.95 ea +
40.00 refundable core charge ea.
Rear "
47.95 ea + 30.00 ditto
Heavy duty valving is charged at $10.00 per shock. Any spec you want.
We can rebuild yours also, tho it takes a bit longer.
Feel free to call if I can be of ANY assistance.
Cheers Peter
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follows is my diatribe on shocks..... enjoy?
>Your question: is it possible to rebuild Armstrong shocks?
YES. We do it. Can you? I don't know. I started out by trying my first one
(a sprite) in 1973. What a mess! It helps to have jigs and fixtures.
The original design of the shock does not have a bushing/bearing for the
shaft to pivot in. The bore of the hole is the same as the casting.... a
zinc alloy. The sealing at the shaft is originally "attempted" using a
packing held in place by a crimped-in steel washer. This packing (like all
packings) requires a little bit of "lubrication" (read leakage) to work,
hence the "topping-up" ritual.
Most of our competitors install a bushing-bearing in the body, as do we.
This step requires a milling machine, custom-made mills, and some fixtures
to assure concentricity. Some of our competitors use a packing which
amounts to several rubber washers crammed in the original hole followed by
a steel washer. Other of our competitors bore the body to accept a rotary
oil seal (good idea) and try to clean-up the usually pitted shaft. (an oil
seal requires a 3micron finish to perform well) The original shafts are
often badly pitted, if not grooved, from the years of water and dirt
they've been exposed to.
Now, what we do. After thoroughly cleaning, dismantling, bead blasting the
shock, we machine the body for nylon bushings (require less lubrication).
We also machine for rotary oil seals. Then (our trick) we install on the
shaft stainless steel sleeves, that we manufacture, to provide a better
than 3 micron finish and bring the shaft to a consistant diameter. Of
course we also fully inspect the shock for damage and we redo the large
valve as well as the small (often broken) poppet valves in each piston.
Each shock is then assembled with all _new_ proper hardware (never-siezed),
bled and tested prior to being painted with primer and 2 coats of high heat
black semi-gloss enamel. Whew!
Regarding "up-rated" valves. I find that most people's memory of the ride
of their car is when the shocks are about half used-up. Most owners of
Healeys, MGs, etc. never had them new. I think you'll find that unless you
race, the stock settings that we provide are excellent. Remember, the slam
against these cars when new was that they rode stiffly if not "like a
lumber-wagon".
I hope I haven't taken too much of your time, but it sounded like you
wanted to know the inside story on shocks. Can you rebuild them? Without a
major equipment purchase you can repack the seals with some garden hose
washers, maybe that will help.
World Wide Auto Parts
2517 Seiferth Rd., Madison, WI 53716
(800) 362-1025 Fax (608) 223-9403
http://www.mailbag.com/users/nosimport
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