On Wed, 24 Mar 1999, Mike Lishego wrote:
> >
> >Constant ground?? Not unswitched power? this will become an
> important
> >distinction...
>
>
> There's a reason for that. I have a battery cut-off switch that I
> use on my ground terminal. I disconnect it every night because a) I
> don't want my battery to drain for a silly reason, b) nobody can
> steal my car if it won't start, and c) nobody can crawl in my car
> and leave the lights on *been there, done that.* I ran a full-time
> ground to the radio only because I wanted to keep my stereo settings
> for more than a day.
Thank you, this makes all kind of sense now <g>.
>
> Actually, it's the radio and the circuit it's on. That would
> include the map light (Which only works through the switch, not with
> the doors), the cig lighter which is disconnected, and the trunk
> light. I don't think that's too much to ask from a circuit that
> sees limited use?
>
I think in normal use you'd be OK. The wire to the trunk light switch
isn't that big, nor are the map light switches. I'd go 14 gauge if I were
nervous. 18 *might* be a bit skinny.
> Picked up some 10-ga wire from Autozone today. Gonna solder the
> connections and heat shrink them tomorrow...
>
woah!
Big stuff. Well, if there's a short after you do that, *that* wire won't
melt.
>
> Would I have any problem running a ground to the battery from the
> radio only in this situation? What about the trunk light (it is
> nice to open the trunk to turn on the battery and have the light
> come on for you...)
>
It's an interesting question. I personally would have my kill switch kill
*everything* but the lead to the radio memory. I'd put it in the hot
line, not the ground.
> I'm looking at my hayne's wiring diagram right now...It *seems* that
> the fuel pump's white wire gets juice from the ignition switch and
> also from the fuse block. If I disconnected the white wire from the
> fuse block that runs to the fuel pump, this would solve any
> potential shorts, right? No, I take that back - it would still get
> juice from the switch. Judging from the diagram, I'd have to find
> the connection where the two wires meet on their way to the fuel
> pump and disconnect both of them. Anyone know where that is?
I'm not sure I follow this... actually, I'm quite sure I don't. My
morning-brain, probably. Just make sure you're on the correct page of the
Haynes manual at all times. I kept referring to two different diagrams,
each from a different modelyear, and got all confused.
> The black wire intrigues me...I never knew MG fuel pumps weren't
> grounded to the body! Hmmm...I see that this wire also supplies a
> ground for the rear right-side lights. Could this disconnected
> ground be the reason my right turn signals blink slower than the
> others? I guess I'll see - once both white wires have been disabled
> at the fuse block, I should be able to connect the nblack to ground.
The fuel pump itself has two input leads, not
grounded-through-the-mounting-bracket, because with a soft mount you don't
have electrical continuity. The soft mount (a rubberish ring between the
fuel pump body and the clamp) muffles the racket a bit, and I suppose
keeps the "electronics" from being vibrated quite as much. In any case,
you'd have to provide a connector/lug down there anyway, so why not run a
"good" ground? <g>.
>
> Thanks for the tips...This wil definetly help me in my search for
> electrical salvation!!!
>
I'm not an electrical engineer, but I have set fire to some things and
know how to use a Volt-Ohm Meter. Free advice is worth every penny <g>. I
have a few bodges around the harness myself. Ah, for a life of leisure
and a garage so I could redo the whole thing.
--
John M. Trindle | johnt@tsquare.com | Tidewater Sports Car Club
'73 MGB DSP | '69 Spitfire H Stock | '88 RX-7 C Stock
|