Jim,
Thanks for the advice.
Problem is solved -- I took the two cylinders to the Auto Craft Shop and we
got them loose with an impact driver and back in with a good Snap-On
Screwdriver! (this is one of the benefits for us nomadic military types who
can't afford a full set of GOOD tools nor have any space to put them)
I do have a Bentley and a Haynes...and honestly have only "referred" to them
for this procedure. (When in doubt -- read the directions, right? haha) The
Haynes actually has a better diagram showing the entire pedal-m/c assembly
than the Bentley.
I'm almost ready to start reinstalling all the stuff now!
On another note:
Any advice on a source for a good set of the proper fasteners for our MGBs?
I know Moss sells a set -- is this the way to go or is there an on-line
supplier that would fit the bill? Anyone know of an on-line listing of all
the 'common' sizes for nuts and bolts? I'm getting tired of going to the
hardware store (which are all closed on Sunday around here) to find
one-for-one replacements to the rusty old stuff everytime I refurbish an
assembly on my B!
Dan
73 B
>M/C screws- like (almost ?) all the screws on our British cars, except
>a very few straight slot ones, these screws are POSIDRIVE. Say POSIDRIVE
>at least 10 times to impress it into your memory. While you can use a
>Phillips screwdriver some of the time without problems, when you come to
>the really tight screw, the Phillips is not a good fit. You will
>probably damage the screw head without removing it.
>
>Right after you buy that Bentley Manual, please do yourself a big favor
>& buy a set of POSIDRIVE screwdrivers. Next purchase should be a can of
>P B Blaster. With these 2 items, you should have no trouble removing the
>old reservoir. A #4 is required for door hinges, #3 for a few odd
>screws, #2 for almost all others. Many of the ratcheting screwdriver
>sets include at least a #2 bit, you just have to look.
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