John,
This could be a bad MC, but first check other things.
That the pedal did not return--the pedal swings on a pivot, an approx
six inch bolt that runs horizontally across the bracket inside the black
metal can under the bonnet. Above the pivot bolt is a small push-rod
that pushes back into the MC when you push forward on the pedal. Under
the dash panel are two little metal tabs, from which a spring goes to
each pedal to pull them back so they don't rattle.
It is possible, then, for the pedal and the pushrod to retract fully
while the MC is still pushed in, as in stuck. Try pushing the pedal with
your foot and attempting to judge if the pedal movement is about equal in
distance and resistance to what you remember it being. If the pedal
moves farther than you're accustomed to, the MC internal moving parts are
stuck.
This spring I rebuilt the MC on my '72 GT, a dual-line, non servo unit.
If that is the unit you have, may I suggest you just buy a new one or at
least buy a rebuilt from Apple or White Post. Rebuilding it yourself
isn't all that bad, actually, except that when you learn that the thing
doesn't work right, you're investing yet another installation and removal
effort, and that's the time consuming part of the operation. While you
have the hydraulics apart, you might as well rebuild the clutch MC, as
they come out together on some of the cars. Clutch MC is straightforward.
Bob
On Sun, 20 Jun 1999 22:14:07 -0500 John Turbeville <jturbe@netdoor.com>
writes:
>Turning into my drive last night (perfect place for something to go
>wrong) I hit the brake and it made a "Kaplunk" noise. Then the brakes
>seized, and didn't release until I put my foot under the pedal and
>pulled it back up, it made a slurping noise as I did it. I jacked it
>up
>and could barely move the front wheels turning them by hand (rear were
>unaffected). When I went and pulled up the pedal, they released. Is
>this
>indicative of a worn master cylinder? ( hoses were replaced last year)
>
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