The Proper MG Will ship you a 1950cc Engine for around $ 2,000.
Carl E. And their is several guys on the list with shops who will do it right
for
much less than $ 3,000.
Ajhsys@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 7/15/99 11:15:12 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> jeepin@eatmydirt.com writes:
>
> << I have contacted a local
> shop about a possible rebuild of the motor and he is telling me I am in
> the $3500-4000 price range with a 1 year guarantee on the motor. Is
> this a decent price? Would I be better off reading a bunch of books,
> finding a good machine shop and doing it myself? What are the gotcha's
> in that department?
>
> Should I even try to crank it over with an oil/spark plug change? The
> engine is complete and all the gears on the transmission
> engage/disengage easily. It is tempting but I am afraid I will do more
> damage which means more $$$$. >>
>
> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
>
> Congratulations on your MGA. I'm jealous, I'd love to have an A.
>
> Unless the mechanic who quoted that price is the best British car mechanic in
> the world, and he specializes in cars for the stars in Beverly Hills, I'd say
> that he wants way too much for an engine rebuild. It sounds like you aren't
> sure that the engine is really in need of a rebuild, so prep it and try to
> start it.
>
> First, drain all the gas, coolant, and oil out of the car. Put a gallon of
> gas in the tank, backflush the radiator and refill it, and change the oil
> filter and refill the sump. Change the plugs, distr. cap, points, condenser
> and rotor. Disconnect the fuel line at the carb, and (just in case) take off
> the distr. cap. While you have the plugs out, put a teaspoon of oil directly
> in each cylinder to lubricate the cyl. from the top.
>
> Now, turn the engine over a few times. This will force new gas thru the
> lines and fuel pump without putting any old stuff into the carbs, and it will
> lubricate the cylinders at the top. Chances are the batt. is gone, so you
> can just jump from another battery.
>
> Re-connect the fuel line, and put the dist. back together. Squirt a few
> shots of starting fluid (ether) in the air intake and try to start it. These
> cars are amazing, and it just may start for you after a coupla tries.
>
> Remember, all the rubber parts and seals are probably shot, so you will have
> to rebuild the hydraulic (brake and clutch) systems before you can drive it.
> If it starts, you may get to drive it for quite a while before you have to
> rebuild the engine. You will also have to replace all the hoses, belts,
> probably have the gas tank cleaned and sealed, replace suspension bushing,
> etc., etc., etc., ad infinitum.
>
> List...did I miss anything?
>
> Good luck with it, and keep us posted about your progress.
>
> Allen Hefner
> '77 Midget
> '92 Mitsubishi Expo LRV Sport
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