Here is Kelvin's responce to the comments:
"Other supplied sheetmetal such as BMHT panels are coated in a thin
topcoat. This is for rust prevention in transit and storage ONLY!! This
coating is not suitable as a primer as it is not porous, or designed for
good adhesion. These panels should be stripped to bare metal before
painting and primed with a suitable bare metal primer. Think how many
greasy fingers have been over these panels before you receive them."
<If you remove it, then you'll need to use a metal etching primer before
your regular primer>
I like metal etch primer for bare sheetmetal (not aluminum) but a good epoxy
is sufficient.
<since normal paints don't adhere to bare metal,and most primers aren't
watertight>
Most primers ARE, New urethanes are, why do you "wet sand"? They just have
poor resiliancy to leave the car outside in the rain for 3 months.
<since normal paints don't adhere to bare metal>
No paint adheres to Bare metal except "Trem Clad" and I wouldn't paint my
car with it.
Sorry, not trying to be a know-it-all but...just want to keep it straight...
I will be adding a Primer page to the website within the week, there are a
lot of mis-nomers on primers and paint!
"Restoringly" Yours,
Bryce Mack
Classic Auto Restoration Services
BODYWORK - METALFORMING - PREP & PAINT - WOODWORK
Web Page: http://members.home.net/bmack99/paneldoctor/
FAQ's - How-To's - Tools
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Calvin Krug
Sent: Monday, July 19, 1999 4:24 PM
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: re: reproduction fenders
I believe this black primer used on the body panels is e-coat. Every
replacement panel I've seen has this coating, and I've seen a lot working
in body shops. It should not be removed, just scuffed slightly, and then
primered. If you remove it, then you'll need to use a metal etching primer
before your regular primer, since normal paints don't adhere to bare metal,
and most primers aren't watertight.
Calvin Krug
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