mgs
[Top] [All Lists]

Re: TD clutch

To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: TD clutch
From: Chip Old <fold@bcpl.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 1999 12:25:38 -0400 (EDT)
On Sat, 24 Jul 1999, Steve Tritle wrote to mgs@autox.team.net:

> How can you tell when the clutch is adjusted correctly or if it isn't
> adjusted correctly. When starting out in reverse I get a "judder" as I
> pull away. After a run I smell a faint hint of hot fabric/clutch
> plate?

The only clutch adjustment you can control is the clearance between the
throwout bearing and the pressure plate.  You can't measure that clearance
directly (because it's inside the bell housing), so instead you measure
the amount of free movement at the clutch pedal.  That should by 3/4 inch.
If not, adjust the linkage until it is.

If what you smell really is the clutch, then the clutch may be slipping.
When going up a hill, punch down on the accelerator pedal.  Does the
engine rev up without the car actually accelerating?  That's a classic
symptom of clutch slippage.  It could indicate gross misadjustment of the
linkage, but it's more likely to indicate a worn out clutch.

However on the TD & TF judder in reverse usually doesn't indicate a clutch
problem.  It's more likely to be caused by badly deteriorated engine
and gearbox mounts (especially the gearbox mount).  Examine the mounting
rubbers.  If they are soft and spongey, replace them.

Crawl under the gearbox and look at the underside of the gearbox mount
assembly.  You should see a threaded rod poking down through the bearer
plate (bolted to the chassis and supporting the rear mount.  Is there a
nut, steel washer, and rubber rebound washer on that rod? If not, the
gearbox can bounce around on the mount, causing the "judder in reverse"
symptom.

The upper end of that rod is a clevis (a fork).  The clevis is attached
via a clevis pin to a tab that is part of the gearbox tail housing
casting. Lift the rear of the gearbox slightly with a jack.  If the rod
doesn't move upward with the gearbox, then either the clevis pin has
sheared or (worst case scenario) the tab has broken off of the tail
housing.

Assuming the clevis, clevis pin, tab, nut, and washers are all intact,
don't be tempted to tighten the nut too much.  The purpose of the clevis
assembly to control rebound, not to pull the gearbox down tight into the
mounting rubbers.  The nut should be tightened only enough to pinch the
rubber rebound washer slightly.  Over-tightening can break the cast iron
tab mentioned earlier.  So can under-tightening, because it lets the
gearbox bang around too much in its mount, putting excessive strain on the
cast iron tab.

-------------------------------------------------------------------
Chip Old               1948 M.G. TC  TC6710  XPAG7430  NEMGTR #2271
Cub Hill, Maryland     1962 Triumph TR4  CT3154LO  CT3479E
fold@bcpl.net


<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>
  • TD clutch, Steve Tritle
    • Re: TD clutch, Chip Old <=