Mike.........
Step one: Remove the remains of the old boots, clean the exposed portions of
the rack, turning first to full lock one side, then the other.
Step two: Install new rack boots. No need to separate the tie rod ends from
the steering arms; simply undo the lock nut then unscrew the tie rod out of
the tie rod end. Then unscrew the lock nut, counting and recording the
number of flats so that you can return them to the same spots after fitting
the new boots.
Step three: Before fitting the large end of the boots over the rack, pour in
some 90 wt gear oil. (This is the messy but quick way to do it!) The clean
way? After fitting the new boots, remove the cap above the pinion, extract
the guide, spring and brass plunger, add oil while a cohort slowly turns the
wheel from side to side, then replace the plunger assembly and cap. Quantity
of oil? About one cup (official cooking size).
Step four: Use your grease gun on the nipples you see outboard of the
steering rack - the ones on the tie rod ends. Might as well do the other
front suspension grease nipples while you are out there.
Lawrie
British Sportscar Center
-----Original Message-----
From: mistebar@juno.com <mistebar@juno.com>
To: MGS@autox.team.net <MGS@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, November 25, 1999 8:19 AM
Subject: Rack Lubrication
>Thanks for all the help on my question on steering wheel and fuel pump
>for our 68 MBG-GT. I was "playing" under the car and see that the
>steering boots are almost non-existent and the rack gears are exposed. My
>Haynes book is not very helpful on lubricating it, except telling me to
>"inject the correct amount and grade of oil". How do I inject it. I see
>the Moss catalog refers to 90 wt oil. Also, I have an 1998 Chilton's MG
>book which tells you to use a grease gun on the lub fittings on the side
>of the rack. Is this instead of using the 90 wt oil, or in addition to??
>
>Looking forward to your suggestions.
>
>Mike
>Mistebar@Juno.com
>
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