John,
You've come this far, change the timing chain. Saving the minor cost is
"false economy" in the words of my British manuals. While you're in there,
change the tensioner also. Again, minor cost, major work to go back in and
fix later. Obviously, you'll change the oil seal in the timing cover.
Pete
'66 MGB
'56 TR-3
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
John R. Boehmke
Sent: Sunday, November 28, 1999 6:37 PM
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Crankshaft Bolt and Chain Tensioner
Dear List,
This is a follow-up to my question on removal of the crankshaft pulley
bolt. Lawrie suggested I use a 3/4" impact wrench, but, even with the
radiator out, I couldn't get one to fit. I finally solved my problem by
drilling a 3/8" hole in the pulley (there was already one there, but only
half way through), putting a steel rod through the hole, and torqueing
against the steering rack. Nut off! Lawrie was right, there is too much
"spring" in the drivetrain to torque against that alone.
Now for my next question. How much "slop" can be in the timing chain before
the tensioner is no longer effective and a new chain is required? With the
right side of the chain tight, there is about 3/4" "slop" on the left side.
Can this be taken up by the tensioner?
Thanks in advance for any thoughts.
John B.
77MGB etc.
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