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Rebuilding the engine on my '78B

To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Rebuilding the engine on my '78B
From: Florrie & Allen Bachelder <bachldrs@swva.net>
Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2000 22:26:47 -0400
Doug -

Congratulations! I was 49 when I did my first engine rebuild.  Yes we OFs
can still learn a few new tricks.  My 2¢ worth.  Heck, replace the oil
pump.  Why go this far and skimp on such an important component.  They
aren't THAT expensive.  I have been in the habit of smearing new gaskets
with a thin coat of "red stuff".  ' Think most of the pro's I've talked to
since use a little clear RTV but I'll let the pro's on the list
confirm/deny this.  Don't know about that front lip on the sump, but can't
help imagining that if you don't replace that oil pump, the lip removal
trick may come in handy.  I vote for replacing the pump and leave the lip
alone.

For a first-time engine rebuild: two cautions from mistakes I almost made
on my first.  Haynes doesn't say anything about the timing chain tensioner
gasket - so I put it together without one.  Next day I noticed this strange
but all-too-familiarly-shaped gasket in the gasket set.  That night after
completing backplate, flywheel and clutch assembly, I was sweeping up a bit
- ' noticed this little "spring thing"  about 4-5" in diameter. Recognizing
it as part of the old rear mainseal, I fished through the trash until I
found the old rear mainseal.  The "spring thing" was still on it!  Off came
the clutch, flywheel, backplate, and of course the timing chain cover too.
Next came a 95-mile round trip to get new cover and rear plate gaskets as
well as another rear mainseal and flywheel locking plate.

It's fun and as you've already noticed, VERY satisfying.  Not rocket
science - it mostly requires a lot of care, a lot of attention, and a lot
of cleanliness.  But it is labor intensive and you don't want to have to
deal with something like a rear mainseal after the engine/transmission is
in the car.

Good luck!

Allen

>From: Doug McLaren <dmclaren@sympatico.ca>
>
>Hello Folks and Happy New Year....
>I wrote to the list in the Fall and mentioned that I was rebuilding the
>engine in my '78 MGB...
>I have a few questions before I go much further...
>
>1. The Haynes book says to replace the oil pump if more than 6 thou.
>clearance on the rotor.
>Mine has 8 thou clearance looks like something ugly went through it. It
>is not smooth. Should I replace it?
>
>2. The previous owner/rebuilder must have had shares in Dow Corning.
>There was silicone on the water pump, oil pan, rocker cover + + +. It
>has been my intention to keep it pure and just use new gaskets
>everywhere but I am now thinking that maybe some places should have
>either silicone or gasket
>cement or whatever for a reason. It will be much easier to put it on now
>
>that later.  Are there places where it should be used?
>
>3. I have been reading the many ways to get the front bolts undone on
>the oil pan when the engine is in the car and I am considering grinding
>the lip off of the front of the pan to allow a wrench in there later if
>necessary. Is the flange lip structurally necessary or am I OK to remove
>
>it?
>
>4. Are there any things I should be aware of...

>Just a note to anyone contemplating a rebuild. I have passed the big 50
>and this is the first time I have rebuilt an engine...
>

******************************************
         Allen H. Bachelder  =iii=<
         Sinking Creek Home for Wayward MGs
        49 YT, 57 ZB, 58 ZB, 65 B, 67 BGT, 73 B, 73BGT, 76 B, &...
         New Castle, VA 24127
         USA
         540/544-7333
******************************************



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