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Midget 1500 Alternator Conversion Completed

To: "Spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>, "Mgs" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Midget 1500 Alternator Conversion Completed
From: "Michael Graziano" <mgraziano@mindspring.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 23:23:18 -0400
All,

I bit the bullet and converted the Midget to the GM 7127 unit.  I believe I
used a '78 LaSabre as the PC lookup in the auto parts store.  The 7134 also
works, but is an 80amp unit versus the 63amp unit I bought.  It was $40
more.

Parts needed:

1) Alternator - 39.99 plus 15 for the core charge.  It's a lifetime
warranteed DuraLast from AutoZone.
        Note:  Get the one with the 12 o'clock harness position.
2) The GM alternator harness plug was 2.39 in the wiring section.
3) 7" alternator bracket
4) 2 wire connectors (blue for medium sized wires) to connect two wires.
5) One yellow (large) wire connector with a circle connection for mounting
on a stud on the alternator.

The methodology:

1)  Removed the old alternator and both brackets.
2)  Install bottom alternator bracket from a '75 spitfire.  This is the same
        as the '78 Midgets, only the portion that mounts to the alternator on
        the '78 install is removed.  This is essentially a brace.  Picture the
        solid piece with the 2 bolt holes for the block, and the 1" thick hole
        that mounts to the front engine plate.  The 3" long hole where the old
        alternator fits was never cast on this bracket.  I think it had 
something
        to do with the air pump.
3)  Grind off the small lip on the bottom of the GM alternator.  You'll see
where
        it interferes with the front engine plate.  I used a Dremel and 3 heavy
        duty grinding disks.  It's a clean enough job that no one will notice
        if I ever have to return it.  A hacksaw would have sufficed.
4)  Mount the bottom of the new alternator to the front of the engine plate
        opposite the bracket you just installed.  One bolt goes through the
        alternator, the engine plate, and the bracket.
5)  Take the old top alternator bracket to the workbench.  Cut off the round
        loop section that was previously used to pull the engine.  I'll have to
        find another method when I have to pull it for the clutch.  Also trim
        the bend where it interferes with the water pump housing for the method
        I needed to install it (see below)
6)  Replace the old bracket backwards so that the bend which previously
moved
        the adjustment section of the bracket towards the front of the engine 
bay,
        now moves it towards the back of the engine bay (but still pointing 
towards
        the driver's side of the car (left hand drive).
7)  Install the 7" bracket to the alternator mounting hole on the top.
Install it
        to the old top bracket.  They should line up perfectly.  Install the 
stock
        belt, tighten it to spec, and tighten all the bolts.
8)  Cut off the old Lucas alternator harness.  Leave about 2" of wire on the
harness
        in case you ever use drugs and want to reverse this conversion.
        Note:  My harness had three wires.  A small gauge solid brown wire, a 
small
gauge
        brown and yellow wire, and a large gauge solid brown wire.  "The large
Brown wire
        is the main charging lead. The smaller Brown wire measures the system
voltage to
        tell the alternator how much to charge. The Brown/Yellow wire operates 
the
        alternator warning light, and provides the initial voltage to the
alternator to
        start it charging when the engine first starts," (Dan Masters).
9)  Connect the brown and yellow wire to the #1 wire on the harness plug.
The wire
        number is marked on the alternator, and the plug is keyed so it can 
only be
        installed in one direction.  Connect the small solid brown wire to the 
#2
wire
        on the harness plug.  Connect the large solid brown wire to the yellow
connector,
        and bolt the yellow connector to the stud protruding from the back of 
the
alternator
        housing.  The alternator come with a nut to bolt the wire down.  Make 
sure
you use
        dielectric grease on the connections to prevent corrosion.
10) Make sure all the bolts are tight, all the connections are done, and
that the belt
        is tight and lined up correctly with the crank and the water pump.  It
should be.
11) That's it.  Start the car, hook up a volt gauge, and see the system
charge at 14 volts.

My blinkers (which had all the switches and connections cleaned a few weeks
ago) now go
"click click click click click" rather than
"click...........click..........click....."
At night with the lights on, the radio on, the wipers on (fast), the vent
fan on, and the hazards on
I still had plenty of charging power.  Nice.  Very nice.

Michael
'78 Midget


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