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RE: You do realize... This means war.

To: "Chris Thompson" <ct@cthompson.com>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: You do realize... This means war.
From: "Larry Hoy" <larryhoy@prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 18:08:55 -0600
Chris, take heart, it'll run.  My car is my daily driver.  I drive it about
25,000 miles a year.  It has only failed me once (just recently, but that was MY
fault).  The more you drive your car the more reliable it will be.  If you have
a garage queen she will never be faithful.

By the way my car is Scarlet ... the other woman in my life.

Larry Hoy
"It's not how fast you go, it's how fast you go fast"


>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net]On
>Behalf Of Chris Thompson
>Sent: Friday, September 29, 2000 5:55 PM
>To: mgs@autox.team.net
>Subject: You do realize... This means war.
>
>
>It seems my 73 B and I have taken up adversarial roles. I fix something, it
>breaks something else. I havent named the car yet, but when I do, it'll get
>a female name. Between my mother, my wife, my daughter, and my MG, my life
>is chock full of high maintenance women.
>
>So, you may recall that I had electrical problems, a hood that wont open,
>and a myriad of other small problems.
>
>Electrical problem was dead batteries, highly corroded posts, and me
>forgetting that the batteries werent in the engine compartment (Which was
>stuck closed, of course). Yank the two 6v's, buy a new battery lead to be a
>ground lead for the other battery bin, a post/terminal cleaner, and a brand
>spankin new Napa Size 24 12v battery. (With 550 Cold Crankin' amps, yahoo!)
>
>The terminal on the lead that runs up front (You know, the long, difficult
>to replace one) split in two when I tried to crank it down. At 11:30pm,
>nothing open. So I bought a replacement terminal for the positive lead that
>I could clamp on. It wont fit over the battery terminal. It's just
>THAT much too small. Tried to spread the jaws a bit, but that
>didnt work either. Eventually I ended up pounding the terminal onto the post
>with brute force, thinking all the while that THIS is the kind of dumb thing
>that people on this list complain about DPO's doing. But I was frustrated.
>Since I've owned it, I've driven this thing a total of 12 miles. Twelve
>HARROWING miles, as the brakes are more of a rumor than a reality.
>
>Finally, she cranked. Engine roared to life. And promptly died. cranked
>again. Kept my foot on the gas, kept it at 2000rpm for a while. Or at least,
>what I later found 2000rpm to be. The tach remained firmly at zero for the
>first four minutes or so. Then suddenly sprang to life. Add another item to
>the list.
>
>Gunning the engine causes it to skip and backfire. This could simply be the
>carb (A DGV) needing tweaked. The guy I bought it from admitted it probably
>needed tuned.
>
>Backed it into the driveway, simply for the experience of moving the damn
>thing again. Sat in the driveway for a few, pulled it back in. Shut it off.
>
>Went to tackle the hood. Ten minutes with a LOOOONG screwdriver and a
>well directed can of WD40 led to NOTHING. wouldnt budge. Forty-Five seconds
>with a bent coat hanger and success.
>
>The engine had been off for ten minutes at this point, after having run for
>ten (sometimes held at 2000-2500rpm). When I got down to grille level the
>pool of oil under the car was a bit shocking. A nice ten inch circle of
>black. I remember looking in the garage while I had it in the driveway, and
>think I would have noticed a spot this big. I had a similar spot in the
>driveway the day I brought it home. It's like it's leaking AFTER or during
>an engine shutdown, but not during. There's nothing in the driveway from
>where it was tonight, and it sat there for three or four minutes.
>
>As I dont have jackstands or ramps, I cant really get under this thing to
>find out where it's coming from. I could tell it had dripped off of, and
>pooled a bit on top of, the crossmember under the engine. The sides of the
>head and block were moist, but not black.
>
>Oh, and the brake lights, speedometer, fuel gauge, passenger turn signal,
>passenger headlamp, Both high beams, and heater fan dont work. Windshield
>wipers, gas cap, side mirrors, and front side lamps are missing. Oil is
>spurting everywhere. The top of the carb, the opening closest to the engine
>had smoke sitting in it and rolling over like a witch's cauldron.
>
>The honeymoon is over, the car that I was going to get drivable in a weekend
>or so just became an engine pull, rebuild, full body repair/repaint. It
>thinks it can get the best of me, but I'll show it!!!
>
>So, now is the time for me to begin planning what I am going to do to the
>engine. What would YOU do. I realize this may open a holy war.
>
>I want a car that has good street handling, as I intend this to be a driver.
>But I think I might like to try a bit of racing, so the top end is important
>as well, thought not so much.
>
>I'm spoiled by my earlier forays into performance, with Honda's VTEC engine,
>which gives you a different cam profile above 4100rpm. So you can have a car
>with good pull from stop AND a good top end.
>
>There's been alot of talk here recently about cross flow heads, carbs, three
>angle valve jobs, etc, but does anyone have links to stories about complete
>rebuilds like this to help me choose how to put this beast back together?
>
>Sorry to those who could care less about personal narrative, but I've always
>found it helpful to vent to sympathetic minds.
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>| Chris Thompson                                      ct@cthompson.com |
>| 1973 MGB                                    http://cthompson.com/mg/ |
>+----------------------------------------------------------------------+


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