Test your new sender first by connecting it up to the wires at the tank and
checking that it reads both max and min.
Run down to about 1/4 tank then prop up the right rear corner. You will
need a new rubber gasket as well as the new sender. There are two types of
mounting - the earlier multiple screws and the later locking ring. The
screws are obvious but the locking ring requires examination if you haven't
removed one before. There are three flanges that are welded to the tank and
curver over the locking ring, and the ring has three tapered sections that
wedge under these flanges as the ring is rotated in a clockwise direction.
You need to tap the thin end of these tapers with a hammer and drift - not
metallic might be safer - to rotate it anti-clockwise. It should only move
about 1/4 turn to come free. Don't hammer on the flanges themselves, this
just wrecks the tank.
When you reassemble the gasket goes against the tank, the transmitter
against the gasket, and the locking ring against the transmitter. There
should be a small cutout and notch to ensure the transmitter float is at the
right angle,
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 9:29 PM
Subject: Fuel tank sender unit
> Hi,
>
> I have plans to replace my fuel tank sender unit.
> Any hints and kinks to easy this job and things to avoid?
>
> TIA.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Hans
>
> '71 BGT
>
>
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