Thanks for the advise guys,
It made the job simple.
I'd like to leave one hint with the list on this topic:
The locking ring has some spaced inserts on the outer side. These are near
the three tapered sections.
As the sender units has been about 30 years in the tank, the locking ring
was quite stuck. When tapped with a drift, the tapered sections were bent
easily with no movement of the ring sofar.
Before these tapred sections were going to brake off, I had a small
screwdriver inserted between the spaced inserts between the outer side of
the ring and the receptacle where the ring fits in. I just moved it a bit
and saw the ring moving a bit, so it was not stuck solid anymore. After
havin done this the ring was drifted loose in a moment very smoothly.
Yes I tested the replacement unit first and the meter worked fine!
Assembly was easy.
I did drain almost everythin from the tank to avoid spilling the juice...
This job gave me the opportunity to look inside the tank - clean as a
whistle....
As today it was raining cats and dogs I had not chance to actually test it
all by filling up. Next dry day....
Cheers,
Hans
'71 BGT with all gauges o.k. now
-----Original Message-----
From: paul.hunt1@virgin.net [mailto:paul.hunt1@virgin.net]
Sent: maandag 2 oktober 2000 21:49
To: Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com; mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Fuel tank sender unit
Test your new sender first by connecting it up to the wires at the tank and
checking that it reads both max and min.
Run down to about 1/4 tank then prop up the right rear corner. You will
need a new rubber gasket as well as the new sender. There are two types of
mounting - the earlier multiple screws and the later locking ring. The
screws are obvious but the locking ring requires examination if you haven't
removed one before. There are three flanges that are welded to the tank and
curver over the locking ring, and the ring has three tapered sections that
wedge under these flanges as the ring is rotated in a clockwise direction.
You need to tap the thin end of these tapers with a hammer and drift - not
metallic might be safer - to rotate it anti-clockwise. It should only move
about 1/4 turn to come free. Don't hammer on the flanges themselves, this
just wrecks the tank.
When you reassemble the gasket goes against the tank, the transmitter
against the gasket, and the locking ring against the transmitter. There
should be a small cutout and notch to ensure the transmitter float is at the
right angle,
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 9:29 PM
Subject: Fuel tank sender unit
> Hi,
>
> I have plans to replace my fuel tank sender unit.
> Any hints and kinks to easy this job and things to avoid?
>
> TIA.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Hans
>
> '71 BGT
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