$12 a pop for the halogen (on Zorn's site), wow. Here is a link to that
1446 bulb.
http://www.topbulb.com/find/Product_Description.asp?intProductID=40788
That could add up quickly. Do they really make that big of a difference
(anyone use these)? I did the painting the housing bit, that helped a
bunch.
FYI I have the switch rheostat (on/off). I'd hate to experiment with a $12
halogen bulb. Not to mention 5 of them.
Dereck
----Original Message Follows----
From: Bob Howard <mgbob@juno.com>
Derek,
Bulb burnout is independent of the voltage stabiliser. That widget
maintains 10v for the temp and fuel gauges only. Lights are on the 12v
rheostat.
I may have been the source for the suggestion of the Radio Shack 7.5 v
bulbs, as I tried them and they worked great.Then I mentioned them to the
list. As mentioned, for a while they worked great. Then they started
burning out at a fraction of the rated hours. I expected, perhaps, 50 per
cent of rated life, but found 5 per cent was closer to it. They were
cooked-all blackened on the inside of the glass.
Since then, I found that the #1449 has worked well for me. Just now I
looked into a catalogue to get its Volts and Watts but did not find it
listed. Mine came from an electrical wholesale warehouse. These bulbs,
plus painting the inside of the instrument housing white, make it
possible to read the instruments on a dark road. It's still difficult
with a SUV tailgaiting and its lights illuminating the interior of my
car.
Some recommend bypassing the rheostat to eliminate whatever resistance
it imparts. I have not tried that, just leaving mine at max brillance all
the time.
Several of the MGBs in our club now sport the halogen bulbs from Jeff
Zorn. The drivers really like them and recommend them. That's next for
me.
Bob
'72 GT
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