Hello Gang,
We have just learned that the new springs purchased for
our '68 BMW 1600-2 rally car don't work right, as supplied/
installed. The problem is with the geometry of the top coil
of the spring. More on that below.
I am posting this to my friends on the MG, SAAB, Ferrari
and E30M3 lists because I know many of you race your cars
and this topic is not specific only to the BMW 1600-2.
Rather, it involves all of us who compete with our toys.
For rally, Ireland Engineering modified a set of stock
springs for our car to increase our ride height (just the
opposite of what you track-guys do) and to match the
front-to-rear spring rate for our drastically lightened rally
car. In doing so, a long spring was shortened a little to
the give right height and the right rate. A 'flat' was ground
on the end of the last coil to better fit the upper spring hat.
That angle alone, is insufficient to allow the hat to sit level.
In fact, when mildly unloaded, the high point of the hat now
hits the nuts attaching the camber plate/upper strut bearing!
Just what we don't need; The car gets light going over a
yump and the steering locks! Not good.
To fix this problem, the geometry of the top coil of the
spring needs to be adjusted to flatten it out a little. Ireland
suggests that we heat the last coil with a propane torch and
bend the coil enough to allow the spring hat to set level.
The question for those of you who have modified springs
is how much heat is needed and are there any "do's and
don't" associated with this process -- beyond don't get
burned, etc.? All thoughts appreciated.
Best regards and thanks,
Rick / tulsa
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