I second Allen:
If the bleeders are really stubborn, or if the hoses need to be replaced
anyway, I would recomend removing the calipers so you can work on them
securely mounted in a bench vice.
Use a box end wrench, hammered down over the bleeder flats if necessary (if
the flats are already damaged).
Impact always works better than torque and is much less likely to twist the
end off.
Use very light blows (if you don't have a plastic headed "dead blow" shot
filled hammer, go out and buy one now!!) on the end of the wrench. The
object is to shake the fitting loose, not rip it off. If the fitting
doesn't come off with light blows, dowse it in spray lubricant of your
choice, then go to bed. The next day it will thread out without a problem.
If you believe it will be so.
good luck
Kelvin.
> In a message dated 10/6/02 8:58:03 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> Cyc10@aol.com
> writes:
>
>
> > I just purchased a 70 B and am in the process of getting it
> back on the
> > road.
> > The front bleeder screws on the calipers are both frozen
> solid. I have
> > tried
> > hitting them on the top with a hammer, applied heat with
> propane and used
> > PB
> > Blaster. I would like to remove them without damaging the
> calipers. Any
> > one
> > have any tips?
>
> - - - - - - - - - - - -
>
> Soak the threads with PB Blaster or Busty for a few days.
> Try again using
> the proper size box-end wrench or a socket wrench, so you are
> grabbing all
> the flats. If you twist it in half (which you will probably
> do!) use a screw
> extractor, then clean up the threads.
>
> Keep trying, they do eventually come out.
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