> At 02:25 AM 10/25/02 -0400, Mike Janacek wrote:
> >"A temporary fix for your choke is to use one of those spring loaded
> >clothespins, either wood or plastic between the knob and dash, to hold the
> >choke open on warmups."
Perhaps one of you "Old Farts" could school a "Young Pup" like me. (Though,
at 33, I don't FEEL young.)
The cars I've owned in my life, other than the B roadster hulk taking up
half my garage, have been no older than 1979 (And I only owned that for a
day before I totaled it.)
1979 Plymouth Champ, 1983 Dodge Omni, 1985 Ford Escort, 1992 Toyota
If you see a common thread there, it's that I've never driven a car with a
manual choke before. When I picked up my B, it was a warm september day. I
got in, turned the key, and drove it home. The rare occasions it's been
started in the intervening two years have been warm days as well, just get
in and start it.
Over the weekend I tried to start the car just for grins. I got in, it
cranked three times and fired up, and died about five seconds later. It
never restarted. It was fairly cool that day, right at or below 50F, so I
thought "It just needs some Choke... or, uhh, something."
It was at that point I realized that I didnt have a damn clue how a manual
choke works, when it's appropriate, when it isn't.
The car is a chrome bumper with a 1973 18V, and a Weber DGV. The hood was
removed long ago, and there's no air filter on the carb, so sitting in the
car and working the choke cable, I can see the butterfly closing when I
pull the cable.
So, please, help an ignorant brother out, how the heck am I supposed to
work the choke?
Oh, and I'm now fairly confident that the reason it wont run is that it may
be out of gas :) a non functioning gas gauge makes it hard to be sure.
1974 MGB Chrome Bumper Roadster
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