Well I just did this and the part numbers (moss) for the two you need are:
435-650, and 435-660. The were around $20 a piece. These no's are for the
45.5" and the 26" they fit great. I can't see a reason to have them both be
39"
long. Now, as for the stainless braided ones I have to ask why, the most
pressure you would potentially have is 80 lbs and that will never happen due to
the diameter of the hoses. So the braid looks nice but I can't see it being
worth the extra money. But to each his own.
Chad
Joseph Cianciotti wrote:
> Okay, I decided to replace the coil, without even testing it. Yesterday
> I went out to work on the car. Of course it started again on the first
> crank. It died when I put the car in gear. So I thought I had it. But
> it restarted fine. Since it wasn't raining and I had a few minutes, I
> poked around a little more closely. It seems the braided oil cooler
> hoses were rubbing against the coil and wore through the outer case.
> That can't be good. It also wore away the braiding on the outside of
> the hoses. The hoses themselves are in good shape. But that can't be
> good (in the long term anyway.) So I'll probably replace those too.
>
> The model number on the coil is DLB-101. It's a Lucas Super. Does that
> model correspond with any of Moss's offerings? And do I need any other
> bits to hook it up properly? (My car has been converted to negative
> ground, with the coil moved to the sidewall to make room for the
> alternator. If that makes a difference.)
>
> And regarding new hoses, should I replace with braided or rubber? And
> what length? I know '67s had two 39" hoses, but do the 26" and 45-1/2"
> fit better? Authenticity isn't much of a concern with me. I have a 18V
> block with a new non-smog unleaded head. And with the alternator and
> Pertronix setup, it's kind of a hybrid anyway. I want what works (and
> lasts) best.
>
> As always, thanks in advance,
>
> Joseph
> 67 MGB Roadster
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