----- Original Message -----
From: "engl" <engl@cableregina.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2003 5:33 AM
Subject: A Couple of Questions
> - how do you get the heater knobs off? Do you put something in the little
> hole in the side of the knob to release it?
Yes, there is a spring-loaded pin, push it in and pull off the knob (it says
here). However the knob could be stuck on the spindle, just be sure the pin
is moving before you apply too much pressure. Try some releasing fluid.
> - the car pulls slightly to the left on acceleration at speed, and
slightly
> to the right when you lift of the gas. Seems to be some sort of rear end
> steering. Tried the U-bolts on the rear springs and they seem tight. The
4
> spring mounting points look good (i.e. not rusted). Any ideas?
This usually is caused by something around the rear suspension, you've
checked the obvious, springs sound?
> - the right rear shock seems to have a little play on the shaft right at
the
> shock. Can move it in and out about 1/32" (or less) and it rattles a
bunch
> over bumps. Is this something you can shim, or do I need rear shocks?
Does it have any hydraulic fluid in it? Sounds like it may have leaked out
and not be doing anything, which could also cause your rear-end steering
problem, I had the same on the front - pulling to one side under braking
with a deffective damper.
> - how can I tell when the kingpins are worn? The front steering is stiff,
> and I suspect the kingpins.
Worn kingpins usually have slop and knock under braking, turning etc. Stiff
kingpins can be caused by lack of lubrication, which causes rapid wear, have
you not greased them yet? There should be three nipples each side (two on
unmodified early cars) and you should be able to pump grease out of the top
and bottom trunions from each nipple. Jack the front up and you should be
able to spin the steering from lock to lock with a fingertip (don't crash it
into the end stops). If it is stiff you will need to separate the track rod
end from the steering arm with a 'scissors' type ball-joint removal tool
(pickle forks etc will destroy the boot on the track rod end) to see whether
the stiffness is in the rack or the kingpin(s).
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