I will add to this that on the tanks where the pickup is fixed into the
tank, sometimes they are just clogged and there isn't much you can do about
it short of cutting the tank open or replacing it.
For the purposes of trivia I actually weighted the crap that came out of my
tank in the V8. This is a tank that was in perfect condition except for the
metal bottle of brake fluid that rusted through in the trunk and perforated
a section of the trunk over the years. I cut the top off the tank and
sanded it clean inside. After sufficient evaporation of the water used for
safety, the dry pile of crap weighed nearly 2.5 pounds, and as I said this
was a good tank.
James Nazarian
71 MGBGT V8
71 MGB Tourer
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of G.G. Causey
Sent: Friday, July 16, 2004 1:05 AM
To: Howard Battan
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Fuel tank restoration
Howard,
>From (bad) experience, the key to restoring a fuel tank is getting it
cleaned
out properly to begin with. Don't waste time trying to do it yourself.
First, find a radiator shop that will "boil out" fuel tanks, and have it
done.
Next step is to quickly pour in a bottle of phosphoric acid solution (a pint
or
two of Pospho, from your neighborhood True Value hardware store should do)
to
convert any remaining rust into a better kind of oxide. Tumble the tank
around
by hand to make sure it goes everywhere. Paint some onto the outside, too.
Dump
out the remainder into a suitable container. Let the tank dry for a day.
Last, buy a pint of Rustoleum brand Rusty Metal Primer (the dark brown
stuff)
and cut 50/50 with the recommended thinner. Pour into the tank, and tumble
around by hand to make sure it goes over the entire interior. Dump out the
remainder into a suitable container. Assuming an MGA tank is similar to an
early MGB tank, quickly apply copious amounts of compressed air to the fuel
outlet to blow the primer out of the fuel pick-up strainer.
Dispose of the "suitable containers" at a nearby hazardous waste recycling
center.
Apply a coat of Rustoleum metal primer to the outside of the tank. Let dry
for
the recommended period. Paint it black.
Put the tank out in the sun to dry, turn every 4 to 6 daylight hours for a
couple of days, then put back into the car. On an MGB, the top of the tank
should be coated with Waxoyl before going back into the car. Don't know
about
an 'A.
To repeat, the key to restoring a fuel tank is getting it cleaned out
properly
to begin with. Don't waste time trying to do it yourself.
Alternatively, you can have the radiator shop do the whole thing. The tank
from
my '67 MGB GT is currently in the shop at Performance Radiator in Tacoma,
getting the whole thing done (boil out, re-lining, painting). This is my
second
attempt this year. If you must ask "Why?" I can only answer "The key to
restoring a fuel tank is getting it cleaned out properly to begin with.
Don't
waste time trying to do it yourself."
~Jerry
> I'm at the point in my restoration that I need to clean and protect my
> 57 MGA's fuel tank. Moss has a cleaner, etch, and slushing compound
> available for this purpose. Is this the best way to go, or are there
> better alternatives? Anyone have tales of success or woe on the Moss
> system?
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