1. The clutch is a bear to bleed on the B. One weekend after flushing the
old fluid out, there was so much air that I couldn't disengage the clutch at
all. I too tried everything, to no avail. I came back to it the next
weekend, and to my surprise the pedal was nice and hard. Evidently, the air
had worked it's way out all by itself.
Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s)
Email - bobmgtd@insightbb.com
Cars: 52 MGTD - #17639
71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361
Member: NEMGTR #11470
NAMGBR # 7-3336
Hoosier MGB Club
Olde Octagons of Indiana
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Macedonia" <david.macedonia@verizon.net>
To: <mgs@Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Thursday, December 23, 2004 7:39 AM
Subject: Misc. Questions
> Hi All,
>
> Well, I took advantage of the warm weather here in Central Maryland
> yesterday to drive...yes, I said drive...my '66B out of the garage and
> around the neighborhood for the first time since I purchased it 9 years
> ago. It was quite the experience. I was surprised by how well it ran and
> handled considering the fact that I did all the work!
>
> However, I still have some issues I need to address, so I could use your
> collective advice.
>
> 1. This is a common topic here on the list - bleeding the clutch
> hydraulics. Basically, I have tried everything: a) The two-person,
> pump-the-pedal process, b) Visibleed, and c) Mityvac. Of the 3, I had the
> most success with the Visibleed, but the clutch pedal is still soft and I
> sometimes have to pump it twice to change gears. I'm beginning to suspect
> the master cylinder (which I rebuilt many years ago) and am considering
> buying a new one. Would you agree?
>
> 2. The needle on my tachometer fluctuates wildly while driving. I remember
> this being a topic of discussion on this list some time ago, but I don't
> remember what the various diagnoses were. It seems pretty steady at low
> (<1500) rpms, but it goes nuts while driving.
>
> 3. The speedometer needle doesn't move. Actually, I think it wants to
> move, it just gets stuck. The odometer, however, appears to be working.
> Any suggestions?
>
> 4. I've been told to use 30W, non-detergent oil in my transmission instead
> of the 10W-40 that I put in. Would you agree? If so, where can I buy it? I
> searched the local Pep Boys and they seem to have nothing but detergent
> motor oils.
>
> Other than that, I had a great time driving it around and I can't wait to
> insure and register it so I can get it out of the neighborhood.
>
> By the way, I ended up buying a 6ft, 1/2" threaded rod from Home Depot to
> use as a guide for setting the toe-in. I just put a large fender washer in
> between two nuts on either end and used them to measure the difference
> between the front and back of the tires. By the time I was done, I bet
> that I'm within a 1/16" of the proper setting. I will, however, bring it
> to an alignment shop once I'm on the road. Speaking of tires, where can I
> bring mine to get them properly balanced? Do places like Goodyear know how
> to deal with wire wheels? I think there were instructions included with
> the Dunlop wheels that I bought from Moss, and there is a little
> description of the process in the Victoria British catalog. Is that all
> they need to know?
>
> Sorry for going on so long.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave
>
> 1966 MGB
> Crofton, MD.
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