I followed Mike's advice and the pipe is now properly joined to the
union! Thanks also to Jethogger who also e-mailed me with the same
advice. It's great for us beginners to pick up these tips from those
in the know..
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: RE: MGA Brake pipe to union connection stripped
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2006 14:43:09 -0700
From: Michael Singleton <Mike@sportscarslimited.net>
To: Robert Guinness <rjglaw@swbell.net>
Odds are that the connection is not stripped. However it is common for the
flare to have been over-tightened in the union, causing the ferrule nut to
flare to swell to a size greater than the minimum diameter of the threads.
This can be checked by finding a bolt of the correct size (3/8 X NF, I
believe) and threading it into the union - gently (don't force it, and don't
force it into the bottom of the hole against the tapered part). If it
threads into the union - British Pipe threads are straight threads, and use
the same threads/inch as UNF - The union has not been compromised. Likewise
using a nut of the same size as the bolt, try to thread it onto the coupling
nut. Same story, it ought to go if all is well, won't go if something is
wrong. Most likely scenario is that the flare on the end of the pipe was
bottomed out too hard and expanded. If this is so, take a small file and
file down the flare, around the diameter only, not on the face of the flare.
Also file the ferrule nut on the diameter where it abuts the flare to reduce
the diameter by the proper amount.
Mike
Michael Singleton
Sportscars Ltd
Sacramento, CA 95826
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Robert Guinness
Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2006 9:53 AM
To: MG List
Subject: MGA Brake pipe to union connection stripped
In the dark hours of last night, I believe I stripped (or uncovered that
the DPO had stripped) the connection between the master cylinder's brake
pipe and the 4-way brake pipe union. The coupling bolt on the pipe just
turns and does not "bite" into the 4-way union threads. The 4-way union
is rather inaccessible and I am fearful that if I disconnect the other
three connections to remove and inspect the union, I will find that they
too are bodged. Are there any "tricks of the trade" to get the coupling
bolt to seat in the union threads without removing of the union, or, God
forbid, replacing both the union and the brake pipe for $75. Or will I
have to just put the time in to remove them for inspection and
replacement. I am obviously trying to save work (i.e. precious free
time), which is less than optimal. But I want to get in the last few
weeks of good driving weather. Thank you.
--
Robert Guinness
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