Funnily enough it is as the book says i.e. just 4 bolts. Personally I push
the seat *back* first and remove the front bolts. These need a spanner as
they are under the seat frame. If you remove those first, then push the seat
forward, the fact that the front is now unfastened can allow the seat to move
a bit further forward (the side of the seat hits the tunnel on 4-synch models)
to allow you to get a socket and extension on the back bolts. The rear two
are exposed under the floor. The bad news is these get all the road muck and
salt and corrode, the good news is you can get releasing fluid on them. The
fronts are within the cross-member, the bad news is that these can also
corrode, there is no good news. If you shear them you can drill and tap as
normal, but if you strip the bolt thread it is a pain to replace them. If you
strip the rears you can always use a longer bolt and extra nut for quickness.
When lifting out the seat make sure the runners don't fall off just over your
paintwork, there is only a lip holding them on, likewise when replacing.
There should be wooden slats under the metal runners, with four large metal
spacers in holes the bolts go through. These spacers sit directly on the
metal floor i.e. inside large holes in the carpet as well. These often rot
and crumble away. Even though the runners sit on the spacers at the ends,
they rest on the slats in the middle which reduces warping under load (!) to
allow you to slide it while seated.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
I want to remove the seats this weekend to polish the tracks and to touch
up
the fames, both starting to look their age a little. Manual says push seat
forward, remove two bolts, push seat back, remove two bolts....is this it,
4
bolts? I assume the tracks are bolted to the seats in the middle somewhere
as
well?
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