I'm my experience rebuilding MGB engines I had a few that blew head gaskets
soon after being rebuilt. The main problem as that after a few times having
the head and or block resurfaced the compression ratio of the engine keeps
increasing combined with the old mild steel studs you get leaks. You need to
get the block and head flat again then change the studs. I prefer the ARP
chromoly stud kit and have run race engines at 13to1 compression without
blowing the gasket. Any ARP bolt dealer/performance car shop can order the
kit. I did try grade 8 bolts torqued to 60ft lbs once on the recommendation of
my father (an aerospace engineer) and although grade 8 bolts do real well in
tension they are very brittle in shear and I used to break quite a few while
torquing them.
New studs, flat head/block and you should be okay. I've
used permatex 300 brushed in the gasket to help seal questionable blocks with
good success. It does make the engine harder to clean up next time you do a
tear down.
good luck
John
----- Original Message ----
From: Stuart
MacMillan <macgroup@comcast.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent:
Wednesday, August 6, 2008 7:34:03 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Head gasket advice
Well,
I pulled the head on my daughter's '70 GT, and found the blown head
gasket
that I figured was the problem. It was completely gone between 1 & 2
(where
coolant entered #2), and leaking between 2 & 3 This engine only has
15k on it
after a "professional" rebuild. There is enough erosion between 1
& 2 that
the head needs to be surfaced, but the block has only a small
amount of
surface roughness.
Do you think I can get by with a light sanding with
200 grit on the block
and the head gasket will seal okay? I really don't want
to pull this engine
to mill the block. There is some slight corrosion in the
#2 cylinder, but
200 grit smoothed it out. It's .030 over now, and I'd
probably have to
re-sleeve or junk it.
Any recommendations on head
gaskets, head gasket sealants, etc. that can
seal a slightly worn block?
TIA,
Stuart
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