Oliver,
Is that 1/4" the distance the lever moved when the clutch piston was
pushing on it?
Could you determine the distance the clutch piston was moving?
What I am getting at is that the piston should be able to push 1/2",
which is all that the lever needs (after all slack motion is taken up) to
push the TO bearing enough to separate the clutch.
The hydraulics compensate for wear on the
If the piston moved only 1/4" before leaking, the cylinder is the item
at fault.
If the piston moves the lever 1/2 or more and the clutch does not
disengage, that's another problem.The levers are robust chunks of metal,
though, and it does not seem likely that the lever would bend. There
could be wear on its pivot and wear in the forks where the TO bearing
fits, but you probably wiggled things and found them satisfactory before
mating gearbox to the engine. It's the sort of thing one does, without
even thinking about it, just wiggling things to see that they work and
are not seized.
Have you taken the cylinder apart since earlier today when you, Paul
and I were writing about the arrangment of the spring & cups?
Bob
On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 13:33:02 -0600 "oliver" <sumton@sbcglobal.net>
writes:
>
> the lever moved maybe 1/4" or so when we were getting pressure, then
> nothing
>
>
> > Oliver,
> > Have you determined that the lever moves? Though it moves only
> 1/2
> > inch or so after the clearance is taken up, if it moves then it
> will push
> > the TO bearing.
> > When you installed the gearbox, you probably would have noticed
> if the
> > graphite of the TO bearing had worn down too close to the metal
> >
> > Bob
> >
>
>
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