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Re: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] front hub reassembly

To: <MG-MGB@yahoogroups.com>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] front hub reassembly
From: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 09:00:03 +0100
The end-float should be .002" to .004" which on the face of it needs a 
dial-gauge, but you can get the same accuracy without.  Presumably you are 
installing new bearings to the replacement hubs, if so install everything 
except the shims and tighten the hub nut until you can feel the hub binding, 
and this seats the outer parts of the bearings in the hub.  Don't grease the 
races until you have determined the shims required as it is cleaner and 
easier without.  Changing the hubs you almost certainly *will* need to 
reshim, although when changing just bearings maybe not, I didn't.  Shims are 
available in .003, .005 and .010 sizes, plus there should be a .030 shim in 
there, get a selection of spares of the three smaller sizes.  The objective 
is to juggle shims until you end up with one set (which go between the 
spacer and the outer bearing) that gives no perceptible play, and one set 
.001 thicker that gives barely perceptible play, and add a .003 to the 
*thinner* set.  The grease the races by pressing grease in with your thumb, 
or injecting it with the body of a hypodermic syringe, but *only* from one 
side and keep doing it until it comes out of the other side.  Don't be 
tempted to press it in from both sides and save time or there will be 
air-spaces in the middle.  Grease the lip of the oil seal, and pack the 
cavity of the oil seal (which should be facing into the bearing), but don't 
pack the middle part i.e. the large spacer.  Refit everything, including the 
outer sealing washer, and tighten the hub nut to 40 ft lb.  Then tighten 
further until the first set of split-pin holes line up, which should happen 
before 70 ft lb, and insert the split pin.  Check the hub rotates freely and 
there is still just perceptible play.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>I am about to change the hubs on my 64B. The proper way would be to use
> shims to "give slightly excessive end float" and "measure the end float
> with a dial gauge" (quotes from my Haynes manual). My Bentley manual
> says "using a clock gauge...". Any suggestions on how this really works
> and what tool I may need to measure this when I assemble the hubs and
> bearings (disc wheels)?
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