Thanks Paul. In the end, the success came from that cover plate you
mentioned, held on by 6 rivets. The bolt did snap and the shop called me
to tell me I would have to remove the bolt before they would continue. I
was worried they might just give up and not do the windshield. Instead,
things worked out as I just exchanged the 64B with my 72B to have them
replace the windscreen seals on it. I generally don't farm out the work
on my MGs but the windshield sounded like a job I didn't want to do.
The bolt that snapped on the 64B was the top one on the passenger side.
I thought I would have to remove the dash to access it, so I started on
the glove box removal first. That was enough to get me pretty good
access to the bolt but for some reason, none of my drill bits or dremel
tools seemed to do anything. So I decided to remove the cover plate to
see what other options I might have. The end of the bolt was not exposed
enough to try it from the other side but I could see the extent of the
problem because the spacer was holding it all in. I used a chisel as a
wedge to introduce a small gap between spacer and windshield frame and
then using a small hacksaw in the gap, hacksawed the excess bolt piece
off. Its all off now and took about two hours total. And for now, the
remaining part of the bolt is not a problem because I was going to use a
different frame anyhow. This one is pitted on the inside frame plus the
DPO cut off the metal post that goes down the middle of the windshield.
I had a windshield spare, also from a Mk1 B, in much better shape except
for the cracks in the glass.
David Councill
64 B
67 BGT
72 B
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Hunt [mailto:paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk]
Sent: Thursday, October 21, 2010 2:28 AM
To: Councill, David; MG List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Windscreen replacement
I *think* they are 3/8" by 1 1/8" or 1 1/4" coarse thread, but the
easiest thing is to use one of the ones that has come out as a pattern.
Also easy enough to grind a point on a standard bolt of a suitable
length, but the correct bolts are available from the usual suspects
anyway.
The big problem is going to be removing the broken stud, at least enough
to get the screen out. If the bolt goes through a plain hole in the
packing piece first, and then into thread in the frame legs, you should
only need to drill through the packing piece to remove the frame, then
you can attack the threaded part on the bench where you will be able to
get to both sides. But I also seem to recall (car not handy) that there
is a cover panel on the outside of the frame legs visible when the door
is open, which if removed may give access to the thread from the other
side to apply releasing fluid or heat.
PaulH.
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