On Sun, Mar 25, 2012 at 6:59 PM, <dave@ranteer.com> wrote:
> nylocs are great; just make sure you get grade 5 minimum. i like grade
> 8. and i assume you know not to reuse them (well, anywhere it counts . .
> .). and a lock washer doesn't hurt.
>
> fyi - there are companies that refurb prop shafts for a very reasonable
> $$.
>
Here is a photo of the damaged u-joint and yoke. I doubt it is
economically repairable
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/JB_8Exdn4qwOVTEvI8hrqHfYyiP1RYH6WBN8oMNJUgg?feat=directlink
Simon
>
>
> -------- Original Message --------
> Subject: [Mgs] '71 MGB Prop/drive shaft bolts and nuts -- use Nylok or
> regular nuts?
> From: Simon Matthews <simon.d.matthews@gmail.com>
> Date: Sun, March 25, 2012 6:52 pm
> To: MGS <mgs@autox.team.net>
>
> We just removed the prop shaft from the '71 MGB GT that my kids drive.
> According to my Haynes manual, the prop shaft should be held in place by
> bolts that are inserter through the flanges of the propshaft first, then
> through the flanges on the gearbox and differential, with the nuts on the
> outer side.
>
> What we found was that the bolts were inserted the other way. In fact, at
> the gearbox end, after removing the nuts and pulling the propshaft of the
> bolts, the bolts can not be removed -- there is not enough space. These
> bolts have a circular head with a small segment removed. When pushed fully
> in the removed segment meshes with something in the flange and stops the
> bolt from rotating.
>
> While removing the prop shaft, we found Nylok nuts while the Haynes manual
> shows regular nuts and washers.
>
> Is it sensible to replace the Nylok nuts with new Nylok nuts? Or go back
> to what the Haynes manual shows?
>
> The rear universal joint had completely failed - to the point that it had
> also damaged the shaft where the U-joint fastens into the shaft. It is just
> as well that I had ordered a complete new shaft when I noticed some play in
> the U-joint while adjusting the brakes!
>
> Simon
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