Hi
I have fitted a High Torque starter to my 1971 MGB, it works great, and uses
less power.
Regards
Pat Hand
74 MGB
49 MGY T
-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Chad
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2012 9:45 AM
To: 'Aaron Whiteman'; 'Douglas McKinnie'
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Just a "click" when starting
The high torque starters are great. There is a seller on Ebay under "MG MGB
MGC Modern Gear Reduction Starter Motor MGB-GT" sells them for $190, much
cheaper than the regular sources. One thing nice is they take much less
power to run them, nice feature if you are having issues in that department.
Chad
-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Aaron Whiteman
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2012 6:03 PM
To: Douglas McKinnie
Cc: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Just a "click" when starting
Sent from my iPad
On Aug 13, 2012, at 3:11 PM, "Douglas McKinnie" <d.mckinnie@usa.net> wrote:
> Sometimes when I get into the car and turn the key to the "start"
> position, there is just rather a substantial "click" sound and nothing
> more. It
always
> starts normally if I turn the key back to "run" and then try again.
>
> I'm just wondering if this is something I should be concerned about.
Oh the timing!
Over the past few weeks, I had noticed that my starter was slowing. One
day, it didn't do anything but 'click'.
In my case, it was the starter itself that was close to dead. Without a
load, it would turn (slowly), but on the car, it did nothing but draw amps.
As Max wrote, make sure your connections are and grounds are good and clean.
If the problems go away, you're golden for a while. Worst case, you need to
be concerned about a dying starter, but if yours is anything like mine,
it'll let you know bad things are coming as long as you are listening.
With an assistant, put the car on a jackstand, chock the rear wheels, put
the brake on, put the car in neutral and check the voltage
* at the output of the starter relay. Should be about 12V when the
assistant turns the key to start.
* at the solenoid control circuit; since this is the other end of the
output of the relay, it should also be about 12V.
* at the second large pole of the starter, which provides rich chunky amps
to turn the starter motor.
You are playing with high-amp unfused circuits, so be careful.
In my case, the starter relay was loud enough to mask the starter solenoid
circuit, so I shunted the battery directly to the control circuit,
discovered the solenoid was working "click!", but the starter wouldn't turn.
Fortunately, they are (in the words of our local auto electrics specialist)
"highly rebuildable".
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