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Re: [Mgs] soldering corroded copper

To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] soldering corroded copper
From: Henri Lefebvre <71mgbgt@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2012 15:52:53 -0600
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Delivered-to: mgs@autox.team.net
References: <1346672538.71757.BPMail_high_noncarrier@web185004.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
A bit late with my response, but earlier this summer I noticed that
the back of the fuse block on my MGB GT was dirty and had surface
corrosion.

I soaked it in 7% vinegar which helped a lot, then I applied some
'Spray Nine' solution and cleaned the rivets with a small brass brush.
Next I soaked the block in a baking soda solution for a minute or two,
to neutralize and rinsed with water.
Once the block was dry I applied some solder to each rivet to ensure a
good contact with the tabs and finished with a coat of 'Brush On
Electrical Tape' to seal the rivets and tab area.

I expect I will not need to worry much about the fuse block.

Henri

On Mon, Sep 3, 2012 at 5:42 AM, Rick Lindsay <rolindsay@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hello Friends,
>
> Generic question for the metallurgy gifted:  What chemical do you recommend
> for cleaning away copper corrosion so I can solder electrical connections?
>
> Background: My '69 Silver Shadow was a techno-marvel for its day.  The entire
> fuse, relay and circuit breaker panel is a tough, thick, glass fiber printed
> circuit board.  The connectors and fuse holders are clamped to the board/lands
> with copper rivets.   Today, 43 years later, the copper of the lands, fuse
> holders and rivets has a nice non-conductive patina causing intermittent open
> circuits.  I want to solder all the crimped bits together but need to remove
> the oxide first.  Thus the question.
>
> Yes, the topic car is OT but the issue of corroded electrical connections
> plagues us all.  Ergo, I query the collective wizardry of the forum.
>
> Thanks and best regards,
>
> -rick
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