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Re: [Mgs] the voltage stabilizer dilemma

To: "Councill, David" <dcouncill@msubillings.edu>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] the voltage stabilizer dilemma
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins@ktc.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2012 11:04:03 -0600
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If I remember right, the stabilizer's ground is through its case. So 
it's important that the bolt that holds it in is tight.  Also that the 
stab is mounted right side up. The gauges are in parallel off the stab, 
so since both of them are affected I wouldn't suspect something loose in 
the wiring from the stab to the gauges.  Perhaps the wire carrying 
voltage *to* the stab is loose.  You might want to check that everything 
is clean and tight at the fuse block too.  All I can figure is that 
there's an intermittently bad connection somewhere.

CR
On 11/21/2012 2:42 PM, Councill, David wrote:
> Another warm day today so I drove the 72B to work today. It does have an
> interesting problem of which I need to provide a bit of history. I had a body
> shop restore and paint a 72 body shell (a parts car I bought about 10 years
> ago), and I transplanted the drivetrain (engine, transmission, rear axle) from
> my rusted out 71BGT in to it. After I got it running, I noticed that the
> engine appeared to overheat (on the gauge) which turned out to be an
> improperly grounded voltage regulator. I fixed that problem but the fuel gauge
> always tended to read low. In particular, a full tank always starts about 1/8"
> below full and drops to > after 10-20 miles and then = tank after about 80
> miles. I know I can recalibrate the gauge but it was just an annoyance so I
> put it off. The coolant temperature gauge also probably ran low as it always
> ran a little below the halfway mark, below "N" but nothing unusual there.
>
> Then a few months ago, I noticed that the coolant temperature was running a
> bit cooler, about halfway between C and N, so I bought a thermostat which I
> still haven't got around to replacing. Maybe that was a good thing because the
> last month or so when driving, I noticed that sometimes the coolant gauge
> would actually drop to almost "C" and the fuel gauge would like wise drop,
> only to return back to more normal readings minutes later. With both in
> tandem, I figured it had to be the voltage stabilizer. And at a cost of around
> $11, I bought a new one from Moss and installed it.
>
> Yesterday, with an almost full tank of gas (6 miles less than full and the
> gauge at its usual full position about an 1/8" shy of F), the problem
> reappeared. I was driving, glanced at the coolant temperature and it was down
> to almost "C" and the full tank read a mere half tank on the fuel gauge. A
> mile or so later, it was back to normal. So it doesn't look like the
> stabilizer unless I coincidentally have two bad ones (not likely but not
> impossible). Things are normal this morning but this evening will be a drive
> in the dark if that is relevant. I should throw in the fact that during the
> restoration (~8-10 years ago), I replaced the wiring harness with a new one
> and the instrument gauges are grounded with the black ground wire from the
> harness.
>
> So I am not sure the next step to figure out this annoyance. But I figure
> since the list isn't seeing much traffic right now, this will make a timely
> inquiry and save us from someone posting on whether the list is up or not :)
>
> David Councill
> 64 B
> 67 BGT
> 72 B
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