>> Referring to the sketch from Moss Motors:
> Dude, 43? I'm thinking 41. I'm not talking about any studs here:<))
> Sorry, I am in the KK's, I have a 1600 mkII with wire wheels which makes
> nut number 14 on page KK.3.
Dude?!? I am not a dude...
I also have a 1600, MK1. Unless you have a Deluxe or TwinCam the front
suspension/hub bearings are the same.
The #43 I am referring to is in the Moss Motors parts diagram. #41 is the
same item in the MGA workshop manual page K2.
> I know the inner spacer needs to be tight to the
> two bearings, if I am too tight the bearings wear, if too loose the three
> parts don't properly lock up and bearing start to wear wobbly in their hub
> locations which happened thanks to the PO. So tight plus a turn for the
> cotter it sounds like.
If the bearings are not a tight (very tight) fit into the hub then the hub
is worn. The shop manual advises to NOT remove the bearings unneccesarily as
this wears the hub's machined surface and then the bearings no longer fit
tight in the hub. Replacement of the hub is the fix. It might be possible to
use a Locktite product to glue the outer race in place. Google Locktite
> Check out P section in the manual. It tells us to put 80/90 in the swivels
> and 30 weight in the engine:<))
That refers to the steering rack, not the swivel links/kingpins. It is a bit
confusing - see the workshop manual; figure P.1 section P.2 "Steering Gear
(C)". The "C" refers to the chart of lubricants - item C is grease.
Section P.4 "Steering Gearbox (B)" is indeed hypoid oil for the steering
See "Lubrication Chart"