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Rick,
Let's start with the penetrating oil, though I don't think it's going to
help much here. The tapered area may come out clean as a whistle.
Instead of buying off the shelf, mix 50/50 ATF and acetone. It actually
works. It's THE best penetrating oil I've ever used. Then there's the
separating tool. The only thing I've found a pickle fork to be really
useful for is removing ice from your wheel wells without damaging the
undercoating. Buy a decent ball joint separating tool. It's two pieces
of steel with two screws in them. It's essentially a Jorgenson clamp
that pushes the threaded end of the ball joint into the eye. You can
exert an amazing amount of pressure and bust the thing openwithout even
damaging the boot. Leave the nut on. The first time you use it it you
will naturally be conservative with tightening it. Don't be.There's only
so far it can go if you leave the nut on. Tighten it until you think the
tool will break and then give it a few more turns. It will go off like a
small caliber pistol. Leave it on for a day if you need to. Hit the
thread with the torch. The trick with two sledges on either side of the
eye might help, too. I've had that work by itself. It WILL pop.
Glenn
On 4/3/2016 1:00 PM, mgs-request@autox.team.net wrote:
> From: Richard Lindsay via Mgs<mgs@autox.team.net>
> >To:"mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
> >Sent: Friday, April 1, 2016 7:28 PM
> >Subject: [Mgs] Pesky ball joints
> >
> >Hey friends, I need help please. The ball joints on my Triumph GT6 project
> >are severly stuck. They've been rusted in place for over 30 years - perhaps
> >40+ years! And I have tried a 'pickle fork', pounding, penetrating oil, and
> >the torch...all to no avail.
> >Please tell me your ideas. My '72's suspension is ready to reassemble,
> >except for the ball joints. Ideas? Tricks? Experiences? Magic?
> >Thank you. All advice is appreciated.
> >-rick
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<font size="+1"><font face="Calibri">Rick,<br>
<br>
<font size="+1">Let's start with the penetrating oil, though I
don't think it's going to help much here. The tapered area may
come out clean as a whistle. Instead of buying off the s<font
size="+1">helf, mix 50/50 ATF and acetone. I<font size="+1">t
actually works. It's THE best penetrating oil I've ever
used. Th<font size="+1">en there's the <font
size="+1">separating</font>
tool<font size="+1">. The only thing I've found a pickle
fork to be really useful for is removing ice from your
wheel wells without damaging the undercoating. Buy a
decent ball joint separating tool. It's two pieces of
steel with two screws in them. It's essentially a
Jorgenson clamp that pushes the threaded end of the
ball joint into the eye. You can exert an amazing
amount of pressure and bust the thing open<font
size="+1"> without even damaging the boot. <font
size="+1">Leave the nut on<font size="+1">. The
first time you use it it you wil<font size="+1">l
naturally be conservative with tightening it.
Don't be.<font size="+1"> There's only so far
it can go if you leave the nut on<font
size="+1">. T<font size="+1">ighten it
until you think the tool will break and
then give it a few more turns. </font>
It will go off like a small caliber
pistol. <font size="+1">Le<font size="+1">ave
it on for a day if you need to. <font
size="+1">H<font size="+1">it the
thread with the torch. <font
size="+1">The trick with two
sledges on either side of the
eye might help<font size="+1">,
too. I've had <font size="+1">that
work by itse<font
size="+1">lf. </font></font></font></font>
It WILL pop. <br>
<br>
<font size="+1">Glenn</font><br>
<br>
</font></font></font></font></font></font></font></font></font></font></font></font></font></font></font></font></font>On
4/3/2016 1:00 PM, <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:mgs-request@autox.team.net";>mgs-request@autox.team.net</a>
wrote:<br>
<blockquote cite="mid:mailman.1.1459706402.27290.mgs@autox.team.net"
type="cite">
<pre wrap="">From: Richard Lindsay via Mgs <a moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:mgs@autox.team.net";><mgs@autox.team.net></a>
<span class="moz-txt-citetags">> </span>To: <a moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:mgs@autox.team.netList";>"mgs@autox.team.net List"</a> <a
moz-do-not-send="true" class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:mgs@autox.team.net";><mgs@autox.team.net></a>
<span class="moz-txt-citetags">> </span>Sent: Friday, April 1, 2016 7:28 PM
<span class="moz-txt-citetags">> </span>Subject: [Mgs] Pesky ball joints
<span class="moz-txt-citetags">> </span>
<span class="moz-txt-citetags">> </span>Hey friends, I need help please. The
ball joints on my Triumph GT6 project are severly stuck. They've been rusted in
place for over 30 years - perhaps 40+ years! And I have tried a 'pickle fork',
pounding, penetrating oil, and the torch...all to no avail.
<span class="moz-txt-citetags">> </span>Please tell me your ideas. My '72's
suspension is ready to reassemble, except for the ball joints. Ideas? Tricks?
Experiences? Magic?
<span class="moz-txt-citetags">> </span>Thank you. All advice is appreciated.
<span class="moz-txt-citetags">> </span>-rick</pre>
</blockquote>
<br>
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