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Re: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Clutch problems wuth thermal component

To: <MG-MGB@yahoogroups.com>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] Clutch problems wuth thermal component
From: PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2016 08:52:21 -0000
Cc: MG-MGB@yahoogroups.com
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: mgs@autox.team.net
References: <002001d23911$e0f3ff80$a2dbfe80$@karamursel.org>
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"pedal goes almost to the floor with no resistance but enough to still =
work"

Expand?  If the biting point is very low when this happens, then either =
the pressure seal is not sealing when it should be, or there is air in =
the system.  If the biting point remains 'normal' then it's a purely =
mechanical issue, possibly pivots binding with heat expansion.

If the banjo union at the master is wet then that does imply a leak, =
which may or may not let in air, and further tightening may not seal it. =
 Also if it's wet it implies fluid loss, which should eventually become =
visible from the level in the master.  But that may take some time, and =
it will be affected by fluid expansion and contraction with heat/cool =
cycles.

If there is air getting in, then I can see that this becomes apparent on =
flooring the pedal, which will tend to push the air down while =
compressing it.  But it will float to the top of the pipe while the =
pedal is down, then when the pedal is released it will be flushed out of =
the system into the reservoir.  That is one of the many techniques that =
may be needed to get full travel of the clutch slave after working on =
the hydraulics.  The effects of incomplete bleeding i.e. air remaining =
in the system would normally be apparent on every pedal operation.

However that begs the question of how the air is getting in in the first =
place.  The fluid is either under no pressure at all (pedal released), =
or under pressure (anywhere beyond where the master piston seal closes =
off the bypass hole to the reservoir).  If air was getting with the =
pedal released then it would be apparent on the first operation no =
matter what the temperature was, and more than once on each drive.  And =
the pressure while the pedal was anywhere in its disengagement portion =
should stop air getting in, even on the upwards stroke, as it is the =
cover plate that is pushing back on the slave piston and hence the =
fluid, which is the main factor in returning the master piston and hence =
the pedal.

The other possibility is that something is causing the slave piston to =
be pushed back into the cylinder while you are driving, pushing fluid =
that should normally be in the system back into the reservoir, and =
creating lost-motion at the release arm.  This has to be taken up before =
you can start to disengage the clutch, so reducing pedal back-pressure =
and lowering the biting point.

But I can't really see how that could suddenly start happening with the =
new master, so the new master (subject to getting a proper seal on the =
banjo) has to be the prime suspect.

PaulH.




----- Original Message -----=20
  ... Now I have a new problem - pedal motion is perfect until the car =
warms up and then most of the pedal resistance is lost briefly...
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META name=3DGENERATOR content=3D"MSHTML 8.00.6001.23588">
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fff" bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>"</FONT><FONT size=3D3>pedal goes almost to the =
floor with no=20
resistance but enough to still work"</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Expand?&nbsp; If the biting point&nbsp;is very low =
when this=20
happens, then either the pressure seal is not sealing when it should be, =
or=20
there is air in the system.&nbsp; If the biting point remains 'normal' =
then it's=20
a purely mechanical issue, possibly pivots binding with heat=20
expansion.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>If the banjo union at the master is wet then that =
does imply a=20
leak, which may or may not let in air, and further tightening may not =
seal=20
it.&nbsp; Also if it's wet it implies fluid loss, which should =
eventually become=20
visible from the level in the master.&nbsp; But that may take&nbsp;some =
time,=20
and it will be affected by fluid expansion and contraction with =
heat/cool=20
cycles.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>If there is air getting in, then I can see that this =
becomes=20
apparent on flooring the pedal, which will tend to push the air down =
while=20
compressing it.&nbsp; But it will float to the top of the pipe while the =
pedal=20
is down, then when the pedal is released it will be flushed out of the =
system=20
into the reservoir.&nbsp; That is one of the many techniques that may be =
needed=20
to get full travel of the clutch slave after working on the=20
hydraulics.&nbsp;&nbsp;The effects&nbsp;of incomplete bleeding i.e. air=20
remaining in the system would normally be apparent on every pedal=20
operation.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>However that begs the question of how the air is =
getting in in=20
the first place.&nbsp; The fluid is either under no pressure at all =
(pedal=20
released), or under pressure (anywhere beyond where the master piston =
seal=20
closes off the bypass hole to the reservoir).&nbsp; If air was getting =
with the=20
pedal released then it would be apparent on the first operation no =
matter what=20
the temperature was, and more than once on each drive.&nbsp; And the =
pressure=20
while the pedal was anywhere in its disengagement portion should stop =
air=20
getting in, even on the upwards stroke, as it is the cover plate that is =
pushing=20
back on the slave piston and hence the fluid, which is the main factor =
in=20
returning the master piston and hence the pedal.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>The other possibility is that something is causing =
the slave=20
piston to be pushed back into the cylinder while you are driving, =
pushing fluid=20
that should normally be in the system back into the reservoir, and =
creating=20
lost-motion at the release arm.&nbsp; This has to be taken up before you =
can=20
start to disengage the clutch, so reducing pedal back-pressure and =
lowering the=20
biting point.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>But I can't really see how that could suddenly start =
happening=20
with the new master, so the new master (subject to getting a proper seal =
on the=20
banjo) has to be the prime suspect.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>PaulH.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: =
black">... Now=20
  I have a new problem =96 pedal motion is perfect until the car warms =
up and then=20
  most of the pedal resistance is lost =
briefly...</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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