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Firstly the tilt in the later clutch master - that was to clear the =
larger brake reservoir cap on North American models when they gained the =
dual circuit system, but was fitted to all MGBs. AFAIK the tilt rotates =
the master cylinder about the centre-line of the bore, so everything =
should remain in line. Whilst the pipe could be moved to mate up with =
the master outlet, if the position of the bore changed relative to the =
pedal that could cause problems.
1. If you continue highway driving, after you have experienced the long =
travel and corrected it with a couple of pedal presses, does it happen =
again? Or does it only happen once no matter how far you drive? If it =
only ever happens once then it looks like a master seal problem.
2. Another test, once you feel the slackness, stop the car where safe =
without using the clutch, and see if you have any free play in the =
release arm. If there is, then something would appear to be nudging the =
piston back into the bore. However, there should be a spring inside the =
cylinder which is constantly trying to push the piston out, and that =
should continually being taking up any free play. The purpose of this =
is to take up any and all play from there on i.e. in the release bearing =
and friction plate, it is this that makes the MGB clutch self-adjusting =
for wear.
As another part of this test, at various temperatures, by pushing on the =
release arm move the push-rod and hence the piston all the way back into =
the cylinder, let it go, and it should ease its way out again. Make =
sure the master reservoir has some space at the top to avoid the fluid =
overflowing.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----=20
=20
It is a bizarre problem. I was hoping someone might have had similar =
problems. Since my last email, I have made two 15 mile drives with the =
same very predictable issue. The master remains the primary suspect =
because the issue happened after replacing the master cylinder. The =
slave cylinder was an aftermarket replacement I put in about 4-5 years =
ago but the only thing I have done with it is to drain the brake fluid.
...
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<BODY lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue bgColor=3Dwhite vLink=3Dpurple>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Firstly the tilt in the later clutch master - that =
was to=20
clear the larger brake reservoir cap on North American models when they =
gained=20
the dual circuit system, but was fitted to all MGBs. AFAIK the =
tilt=20
rotates the master cylinder about the centre-line of the bore, so =
everything=20
should remain in line. Whilst the pipe could be moved to mate up =
with the=20
master outlet, if the position of the bore changed relative to the pedal =
that=20
could cause problems.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>1. If you continue highway driving, after you =
have=20
experienced the long travel and corrected it with a couple of pedal =
presses,=20
does it happen again? Or does it only happen once no matter how =
far you=20
drive? If it only ever happens once then it looks like a master =
seal=20
problem.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>2. Another test, once you feel the slackness, =
stop the=20
car where safe without using the clutch, and see if you have =
any free=20
play in the release arm. If there is, then something would =
appear to=20
be nudging the piston back into the bore. However, there should be =
a=20
spring inside the cylinder which is constantly trying to push the piston =
out,=20
and that should continually being taking up any free play. The =
purpose of=20
this is to take up any and all play from there on i.e. in the release =
bearing=20
and friction plate, it is this that makes the MGB clutch self-adjusting =
for=20
wear.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>As another part of this test, at various =
temperatures, by=20
pushing on the release arm move the push-rod and hence the piston =
all the=20
way back into the cylinder, let it go, and it should ease its way out=20
again. Make sure the master reservoir has some space at the top to =
avoid=20
the fluid overflowing.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>PaulH.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"=20
dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: =
black"><SPAN=20
style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; COLOR: #1f497d; =
FONT-SIZE: 11pt"><o:p><FONT=20
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<DIV class=3DWordSection1>
<P class=3DMsoNormal><SPAN=20
style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; COLOR: #1f497d; =
FONT-SIZE: 11pt">It=20
is a bizarre problem. I was hoping someone might have had similar =
problems.=20
Since my last email, I have made two 15 mile drives with the same very =
predictable issue. The master remains the primary suspect because the =
issue=20
happened after replacing the master cylinder. The slave cylinder was =
an=20
aftermarket replacement I put in about 4-5 years ago but the only =
thing I have=20
done with it is to drain the brake fluid.<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal><SPAN=20
style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; COLOR: #1f497d; =
FONT-SIZE: 11pt"><o:p> <FONT=20
color=3D#000000 size=3D2=20
face=3DArial>...</FONT></o:p></SPAN></P></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>=
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