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Thanks to all who have replied
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone
On Tue, Nov 20, 2018, 12:40 AM PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com wrote:
> Longest run to shortest is correct, with the handbrake released to
> minimise the cavity in the wheel cylinders. I've always used an EeziBled -
> at no more than 15psi - to initially fill and bleed both clutch and brake
> systems, but that has always left the brake pedal long and soft. It pumps
> up with a couple of quick strokes, then after a couple of seconds goes long
> and soft again - i.e. still some air in. The second step is for someone to
> press down very hard on the pedal, then I rapidly open and close a caliper
> nipple, first one side then the other. That always blasts more air out and
> after that it is fine. The front of the car needs to be slightly higher
> than the rear.
>
> But if just replacing fluid on an otherwise working system then an
> EeziBleed and opening each nipple in turn until the fluid runs clear should
> be all that is needed.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> I am new to MGs but not British cars. I have read posts that seem to
> indicate that bleeding the brakes on my 67B is not as straight forwatd as
> say my big Healey. So could someone provide directions of the proceedure? I
> would start with cyl farthest away and work my way to the front.
>
>
>
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<div dir=3D"auto">Thanks to all who have replied<br><br><div data-smartmail=
=3D"gmail_signature">Ira Erbs<br>Portland, OR<br>typos and artifacts are th=
e fault of my phone</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"l=
tr">On Tue, Nov 20, 2018, 12:40 AM PaulHunt73 <<a href=3D"mailto:paulhun=
t73@virginmedia.com">paulhunt73@virginmedia.com</a> wrote:<br></div><blockq=
uote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc =
solid;padding-left:1ex"><u></u>
<div bgcolor=3D"#ffffff">
<div><font size=3D"2">Longest run to shortest is correct, with the handbrak=
e=20
released to minimise the cavity in the wheel cylinders.=C2=A0 I've alwa=
ys used=20
an EeziBled - at no more than 15psi - to initially fill and bleed both clut=
ch=20
and brake systems, but that has always left the brake pedal long and soft.=
=C2=A0=20
It pumps up with a couple of quick strokes, then after a couple of seconds =
goes=20
long and soft again - i.e. still some air in.=C2=A0 The second step is for=
=20
someone to press down very hard on the pedal, then I rapidly open and=20
close=C2=A0a caliper nipple, first one side then the other.=C2=A0 That alwa=
ys=20
blasts more air out and after that it is fine.=C2=A0 The front of the car n=
eeds=20
to be slightly higher than the rear.</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font size=3D"2">But if just replacing fluid on an otherwise working s=
ystem=20
then an EeziBleed and opening each nipple in turn until the fluid runs clea=
r=20
should be all that is needed.</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font size=3D"2">PaulH.</font></div>
<blockquote style=3D"BORDER-LEFT:#000000 2px solid;PADDING-LEFT:5px;PADDING=
-RIGHT:0px;MARGIN-LEFT:5px;MARGIN-RIGHT:0px">
<div style=3D"FONT:10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </div>
<div>I am new to MGs but not British cars. I have read posts that seem to=
=20
indicate that bleeding the brakes on my 67B is not as straight forwatd as=
say=20
my big Healey. So could someone provide directions of the proceedure? I w=
ould=20
start with cyl farthest away and work my way to the front.</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><font size=3D"2"></font>=C2=A0</div></blockquote></div>
</blockquote></div>
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