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A method I have used, conveniently and cleanly, was to inject the oil wit=
h a 50CC syringe, the larger size that a veterinarian uses for large animals=
. A six-inch piece of small ID tubing, from the hardware store, to fit the s=
yringe will slide into the small end of the boot past the tie-rods.
Racks contained only 1/3 pint. That will lie in the rack and bottom of t=
he bellows so that determination if there is oil inside can be done only by l=
oosening the large ends and letting it out. Not helpful, and the large end w=
ill probably leak afterward. =20
A few squirts with the syringe will get in sufficient oil. It is importan=
t to not over-fill, as that gives no room for the air displaced when the rac=
k goes lock-to-lock, thus can burst a boot.
Bob
> On May 1, 2019, at 10:43 AM, PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net> wrote=
:
>=20
> The oiling nipple was only on early racks. Some remove the pinion cover a=
nd damper piston and pour it in there. Personally I've removed the tie or c=
lamp from the large end of one of the gaiters, gripped that from underneath b=
etween thumb and forefinger to stop oil leaking out the bottom, then injecte=
d oil in the top between gaiter and housing. However it then dripped for se=
veral weeks from the pinion seal, so I probably needn't have bothered. On a=
gaiter change on both cars the innards have been wet with oil, so plenty of=
lubrication I suspect. Modern replacements tend to be grease-filled these d=
ays.
> =20
> If someone has tried to compensate for a worn rack by adjusting the shims,=
it's possible to exchange sloppiness in the straight-ahead position for sti=
ffness at the extremities. If you slacken the pinion cover bolts slightly a=
nd the rack gets looser at the extremities then that's probably what has hap=
pened.
> =20
> You can always disconnect the drivers-side gaiter from the rack housing an=
d inspect the rack and pinion at each lock fairly well.
> =20
> PaulH.
> =20
> ----- Original Message -----
>=20
> While doing pre-season routine maintenance on my =E2=80=9871 B/GT recently=
, my mechanic & I decided it would be wise to make sure the steering rack ha=
d plenty of oil. The factory service manual has instructions and a diagram f=
or filling via a nipple on the housing =E2=80=93 but we can=E2=80=99t find a=
ny such fitting (or even a plug), after cleaning off years of dirt. No oil i=
s presently leaking out of the boots, but it=E2=80=99s possible that it all l=
eaked out many years ago, before we bought the car. (The steering is a bit s=
ticky when returning from full lock.)
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>=20
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>=20
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh@gmail.com
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"ltr"></div><div dir=3D"ltr">&nb=
sp; A method I have used, conveniently and cleanly, was to inject the o=
il with a 50CC syringe, the larger size that a veterinarian uses for large a=
nimals. A six-inch piece of small ID tubing, from the hardware store, t=
o fit the syringe will slide into the small end of the boot past the tie-rod=
s.</div><div dir=3D"ltr"> Racks contained only 1/3 pint. T=
hat will lie in the rack and bottom of the bellows so that determination if t=
here is oil inside can be done only by loosening the large ends and letting i=
t out. Not helpful, and the large end will probably leak afterward. </=
div><div dir=3D"ltr"> A few squirts with the syringe will get in suffi=
cient oil. It is important to not over-fill, as that gives no room for=
the air displaced when the rack goes lock-to-lock, thus can burst a boot.</=
div><div dir=3D"ltr">Bob</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><b=
r>On May 1, 2019, at 10:43 AM, PaulHunt73 via Mgs <<a href=3D"mailto:mgs@=
autox.team.net">mgs@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote t=
ype=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">
<meta content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8" http-equiv=3D"Content-Type">
<meta name=3D"GENERATOR" content=3D"MSHTML 8.00.6001.23588">
<style></style>
<div><font size=3D"2">The oiling nipple was only on early racks. Some r=
emove=20
the pinion cover and damper piston and pour it in there. Personally I'=
ve=20
removed the tie or clamp from the large end of one of the gaiters, gripped t=
hat=20
from underneath between thumb and forefinger to stop oil leaking out the bot=
tom,=20
then injected oil in the top between gaiter and housing. However it th=
en=20
dripped for several weeks from the pinion seal, so I probably needn't have=20=
bothered. On a gaiter change on both cars the innards have been wet wi=
th=20
oil, so plenty of lubrication I suspect. Modern replacements tend to b=
e=20
grease-filled these days.</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2"></font> </div>
<div><font size=3D"2">If someone has tried to compensate for a worn rack by=20=
adjusting the shims, it's possible to exchange sloppiness in the straight-ah=
ead=20
position for stiffness at the extremities. If you slacken the pinion c=
over=20
bolts slightly and the rack gets looser at the extremities then that's=20=
probably what has happened.</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2"></font> </div>
<div><font size=3D"2">You can always disconnect the drivers-side=20
gaiter from the rack housing and inspect the rack and pinion at ea=
ch=20
lock fairly well.</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2"></font> </div>
<div><font size=3D"2">PaulH.</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2"></font> </div>
<blockquote style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADD=
ING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<div style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </div>
<div><font size=3D"2"></font><br></div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: 12pt">
<div>While doing pre-season routine maintenance on my =E2=80=9871 B/GT rec=
ently, my=20
mechanic & I decided it would be wise to make sure the steering rack h=
ad=20
plenty of oil. The factory service manual has instructions and a dia=
gram=20
for filling via a nipple on the housing =E2=80=93 but we can=E2=80=99t fin=
d any such fitting=20
(or even a plug), after cleaning off years of dirt. No oil is presen=
tly=20
leaking out of the boots, but it=E2=80=99s possible that it all leaked out=
many years=20
ago, before we bought the car. (The steering is a bit sticky when=20=
returning from full lock.)</div></div></div></blockquote>
</div></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr"><span>________=
_______________________________________</span><br><span></span><br><span><a h=
ref=3D"mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net";>Mgs@autox.team.net</a></span><br><span>Don=
ate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html";>http://www.team.net/donate.=
html</a></span><br><span>Suggested annual donation $12.75</span><br><s=
pan></span><br><span>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs";>=
http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs</a> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archi=
ve">http://autox.team.net/archive</a></span><br><span></span><br><span>Unsub=
scribe: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh@gmail.co=
m">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh@gmail.com</a></span><br>=
</div></blockquote></body></html>=
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Mgs@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net
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