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Thanks Ira for suggesting the knock-offs. I may end up doing that after ex=
hausting the hub change-over option. My Spitfire (66&72) had hubs that si=
mply bolted on. Plus, cars were plentiful in junk (salvage) yards at one t=
ime.
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Wires to Bolt-on Wheels (PaulHunt73)
2. Re: Wires to Bolt-on Wheels (Osborne, Paul)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 20 May 2020 08:27:14 +0100
From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Stephen Hughes" <daybell7@aol.com>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Wires to Bolt-on Wheels
Wire wheel axles are a couple of inches shorter than stud wheel so if you p=
ut standard wire wheels on standard WW hubs on a chrome bumper car the rear=
tyres will likely foul the arches. RB cars are usually OK unless they hav=
e been lowered. There are conversion hubs that bring the wheels in by abou=
t half an inch or so, but you can still get fouling especially on the left.=
BT, DT, eventually got a pukka wire wheel axle with my aftermarket Dunlop=
WW wheels but they still rub a bit with 175s as the inset doesn't seem to =
be as much as the originals, the rear track being 1270mm instead of 1250mm.
Minilites may be OK if the inset is suitable, but really you won't know wit=
h either wheel type until you get them on the car as suppliers statements o=
n inset etc. aren't always correct.
Used hubs need to be treated with caution, the splines narrow and lean over=
especially at the rear and if left will eventually shear.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----=20
Either my wire wheeled 1972 Roadster or 1968 GT will get Minilite Wheels.
=20
I?ll need to switch out the hubs for the bolt-ons. =20
=20
Since the hubs are not available new, I?ll have to find used hubs.
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 13:13:55 +0000
From: "Osborne, Paul" <paul@ece.rochester.edu>
To: PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
Cc: Stephen Hughes <daybell7@aol.com>, "mgs@autox.team.net"
<mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Wires to Bolt-on Wheels
What I have found, and have done, is that the axle fitted to MGB from 1965-=
1980 the over all length is 1 3/4 shorter on the WW or 7/8 on each side fro=
m the center of the spring bracket to the outside. To help with the differe=
nce in the offsets of the wheels, WW to Steel, you need a 1/4? spacer betwe=
en the wheel and the brake drum. But, always a but, the studs are now not l=
ong enough. Finding studs that will work was a PIA. We found that studs fro=
m a Toyota worked the best to fit the holes in the hub with out drilling th=
e holes. Have done this 3 times now and it places the wheel almost in the c=
enter of the wheel cavity with no interference of the week to the body. Go=
od luck.
The best solution is to find a steel wheel axle and use it. Overall cost sh=
ould be about the same and a bit less work.
paul o
mgs@autox.team.net>> wrote:
Wire wheel axles are a couple of inches shorter than stud wheel so if you p=
ut standard wire wheels on standard WW hubs on a chrome bumper car the rear=
tyres will likely foul the arches. RB cars are usually OK unless they hav=
e been lowered. There are conversion hubs that bring the wheels in by abou=
t half an inch or so, but you can still get fouling especially on the left.=
BT, DT, eventually got a pukka wire wheel axle with my aftermarket Dunlop=
WW wheels but they still rub a bit with 175s as the inset doesn't seem to =
be as much as the originals, the rear track being 1270mm instead of 1250mm.
Minilites may be OK if the inset is suitable, but really you won't know wit=
h either wheel type until you get them on the car as suppliers statements o=
n inset etc. aren't always correct.
Used hubs need to be treated with caution, the splines narrow and lean over=
especially at the rear and if left will eventually shear.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
Either my wire wheeled 1972 Roadster or 1968 GT will get Minilite Wheels.
I?ll need to switch out the hubs for the bolt-ons.
Since the hubs are not available new, I?ll have to find used hubs.
_______________________________________________
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--></style></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue vlink=3D"#954F72"><div cla=
ss=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal>Thanks Ira for suggesting the knock-=
offs.=C2=A0 I may end up doing that after exhausting the hub change-over op=
tion.=C2=A0 =C2=A0My Spitfire (66&72) had hubs that simply bolted on.=
=C2=A0 Plus, cars were plentiful in junk (salvage) yards at one time.</p><p=
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o=
:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>=
</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNor=
mal>Today's Topics:</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=
=3DMsoNormal>=C2=A0=C2=A0 1. Re: Wires to Bolt-on Wheels (PaulHunt73)</p><p=
class=3DMsoNormal>=C2=A0=C2=A0 2. Re: Wires to Bolt-on Wheels (Osborne, Pa=
ul)</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>=
</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>--------------------------------------=
--------------------------------</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p><=
/p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Message: 1</p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Date: Wed, 20 Ma=
y 2020 08:27:14 +0100</p><p class=3DMsoNormal>From: "PaulHunt73" =
<paulhunt73@virginmedia.com></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>To: "Stephe=
n Hughes" <daybell7@aol.com>,=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=
=A0 <mgs@autox.team.net></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Subject: Re: [Mgs] W=
ires to Bolt-on Wheels</p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Message-ID: <F9CD8EF4160B=
489484477A338993496D@paul></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Content-Type: text/pl=
ain; charset=3D"utf-8"</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p><=
/p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Wire wheel axles are a couple of inches shorter tha=
n stud wheel so if you put standard wire wheels on standard WW hubs on a ch=
rome bumper car the rear tyres will likely foul the arches.=C2=A0 RB cars a=
re usually OK unless they have been lowered.=C2=A0 There are conversion hub=
s that bring the wheels in by about half an inch or so, but you can still g=
et fouling especially on the left.=C2=A0 BT, DT, eventually got a pukka wir=
e wheel axle with my aftermarket Dunlop WW wheels but they still rub a bit =
with 175s as the inset doesn't seem to be as much as the originals, the rea=
r track being 1270mm instead of 1250mm.</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> =
</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Minilites may be OK if the inset is suitable=
, but really you won't know with either wheel type until you get them on th=
e car as suppliers statements on inset etc. aren't always correct.</p><p cl=
ass=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Used hubs need to=
be treated with caution, the splines narrow and lean over especially at th=
e rear and if left will eventually shear.</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbs=
p;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>PaulH.</p><p class=3DMsoNormal>=C2=A0 ----=
- Original Message ----- </p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p c=
lass=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>=C2=A0 Either my=
wire wheeled 1972 Roadster or 1968 GT will get Minilite Wheels.</p><p clas=
s=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>=C2=A0=C2=A0 </p><p=
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>=C2=A0 I?ll ne=
ed to switch out the hubs for the bolt-ons.=C2=A0 </p><p class=3DMsoNormal>=
<o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>=C2=A0=C2=A0 </p><p class=3DMsoNo=
rmal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>=C2=A0 Since the hubs are no=
t available new, I?ll have to find used hubs.</p><p class=3DMsoNormal>-----=
--------- next part --------------</p><p class=3DMsoNormal>An HTML attachme=
nt was scrubbed...</p><p class=3DMsoNormal>URL: <http://autox.team.net/p=
ipermail/mgs/attachments/20200520/0206faef/attachment-0001.htm></p><p cl=
ass=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>-----------------=
-------------</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNo=
rmal>Message: 2</p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 13:13:55 +00=
00</p><p class=3DMsoNormal>From: "Osborne, Paul" <paul@ece.roc=
hester.edu></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>To: PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73@virgin=
media.com></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Cc: Stephen Hughes <daybell7@aol.c=
om>, "mgs@autox.team.net"</p><p class=3DMsoNormal>=C2=A0=C2=A0=
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=
=A0 <mgs@autox.team.net></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Subject: Re: [Mgs] W=
ires to Bolt-on Wheels</p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Message-ID: <33FFBFF1-676=
9-4655-9B32-B6F93B65C201@ur.rochester.edu></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Conte=
nt-Type: text/plain; charset=3D"utf-8"</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o=
:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>What I have found, and have done, i=
s that the axle fitted to MGB from 1965-1980 the over all length is 1 3/4 s=
horter on the WW or 7/8 on each side from the center of the spring bracket =
to the outside. To help with the difference in the offsets of the wheels, W=
W to Steel, you need a 1/4? spacer between the wheel and the brake drum. Bu=
t, always a but, the studs are now not long enough. Finding studs that will=
work was a PIA. We found that studs from a Toyota worked the best to fit t=
he holes in the hub with out drilling the holes. Have done this 3 times now=
and it places the wheel almost in the center of the wheel cavity with no i=
nterference of the week to the body.=C2=A0 Good luck.</p><p class=3DMsoNorm=
al><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>The best solution is to find a=
steel wheel axle and use it. Overall cost should be about the same and a b=
it less work.</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNo=
rmal>paul o</p><p class=3DMsoNormal>On May 20, 2020, at 3:27 AM, PaulHunt73=
via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net<mailto:mgs@autox.team.net>> wrote:=
</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Wire whe=
el axles are a couple of inches shorter than stud wheel so if you put stand=
ard wire wheels on standard WW hubs on a chrome bumper car the rear tyres w=
ill likely foul the arches.=C2=A0 RB cars are usually OK unless they have b=
een lowered.=C2=A0 There are conversion hubs that bring the wheels in by ab=
out half an inch or so, but you can still get fouling especially on the lef=
t.=C2=A0 BT, DT, eventually got a pukka wire wheel axle with my aftermarket=
Dunlop WW wheels but they still rub a bit with 175s as the inset doesn't s=
eem to be as much as the originals, the rear track being 1270mm instead of =
1250mm.</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>M=
inilites may be OK if the inset is suitable, but really you won't know with=
either wheel type until you get them on the car as suppliers statements on=
inset etc. aren't always correct.</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p=
></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Used hubs need to be treated with caution, the sp=
lines narrow and lean over especially at the rear and if left will eventual=
ly shear.</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal=
>PaulH.</p><p class=3DMsoNormal>----- Original Message -----</p><p class=3D=
MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Either my wire wheeled =
1972 Roadster or 1968 GT will get Minilite Wheels.</p><p class=3DMsoNormal>=
<o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>I?ll need to switch out the hubs =
for the bolt-ons.</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DM=
soNormal>Since the hubs are not available new, I?ll have to find used hubs.=
</p><p class=3DMsoNormal>_______________________________________________</p=
><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> =
</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o=
:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMso=
Normal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p cl=
ass=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p>=
</p></div></body></html>=
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