Simon, I donâ??t even try to replace points or the condenser with the
distributor in the car. You canâ??t see what you are doing, itâ??s easy to
cross thread the tiny screws, and especially easy to drop them into the
interdimensional void. I pull the distributor, and replace the parts on my
bench, supporting it in the bench vise. This also allows a thorough inspection
and cleaning if necessary.
I may have to fine tune the point gap in the car after running it, but that
only requires loosening screws, not removing them.
Sent from my iPad
> On Dec 27, 2025, at 3:09 PM, Simon Matthews <simon.d.matthews@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> I have already asked on a forum, but I thought that I would reach out
> on the mailing list also.
>
> I am struggling to insert the screw that holds the capacitor down in
> the distributor. There is a black wire hanging that I believe also
> needs to be fastened down with the same screw. I am replacing the
> capacitor because of poor running.
>
> The screw in my distributor has a cross-head pattern. Barney shows
> this screw and the one that holds down the contact points as the same
> screw type (2BA), but Moss shows only one screw and it has a slotted
> head. It is also considerably longer than the screw I am dealing with
> (see photos in
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/iNTC9auUAdve94G1A ). The screw that I have
> looks similar to the one in this video:
> https://youtu.be/9x51poyZLa8?t=1271
>
> The screw that I have doesn't have a good head -- the cross is a bit
> mangled. Has anyone got any suggestions on:
> 1. Is this the correct screw?
> 2. Is it correct that the screw holds down both the black wire and the
> capacitor?
> 3. Are there any tricks to getting the screw into place, without
> removing the distributor?
>
> Many thanks,
> Simon
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