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Re: Pulling 4/4 engine

To: wzehring@cmb.biosci.wayne.edu (Will Zehring), morgans@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Pulling 4/4 engine
From: jblair@exis.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 22:56:56 -0400
At 10:36 AM 6/25/96 -0400, Will Zehring wrote:

>Fellow fiends:
>...
> In a sense its not really ready to sell, as I have developed an oil
> leak at the rear main.
...
>
>  By our reconning, the engine needs to be pulled to make this 
> repair.

You could probably do the job with the eng. in the car.  Drop the pan, then
pull the con rod cap and main caps and drop the crank.
However, all the work would be laying on you back.

> The 120E engine appearently has a two part rope seal and 
>one really needs to drop the crank to replace it.

Only if the upper portion is leaking.  You can replace the lower ones
by dropping the pan.  I don't remember if you can replace the upper
1/2s.  It seems that in the deep recesses of my mind (which I'm 
beginning to wonder if I actually have one) I think I've replaced the
upper 1/2 without dropping the crank.  Just can't remember.

>
> My simple question:  how hard is it to pull the 4/4 engine but leave 
> the tranny in the car?  It looks like there should be plenty of 
> room, but maybe I'd have to remove the fan first?  Any experience?  John B.?
>

I think I'd remove the fan.  I'll say one thing, it's easier to pull
the eng without the tranny than with.  If you pull it with the tranny,
you need to pull the radiator and the nose of have the car pretty
high off the ground so you can drop the trany down to get enough
angle to get them out over the front suspension, radiator and nose.

> Any advice on this job?  I don't think the engine NEEDS anything, 
> but if it is necessary to yank it out, it does make sense that it'd
> be a good time to sort of go through things.

True,  however, you'll need to mic the mains and con journals before
ordering the bearings.  If you're going that far, you might want to
think about poping the head and checking the cyl. bores for taper.
In addition, run a ridge reamer around the tops of the cyl. and a
glaze breaker through each bore.  

Keep this up, and you might as well send the block out to be boiled
and do a complete rebuild.  Oh happy days, Oh happy days.

I've got to do that to my Brick eng.  It's been setting on the eng.
stand for almost 2 years now.

John

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ          email:  jblair@nhr.com
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (804) 495-8229

48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget  65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
     75 Bricklin SV1   77 Spitfire

The one with the most toys, wins!


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