In message <oz84xAA3kHoyEwHq@jmemee.demon.co.uk>, Jeremy Edwards
<jeremy@jmemee.demon.co.uk> writes
>"Adamson, John G" <adamsojg@jmu.edu> writes
>>Hi All,
>> I have written on several occasions, but this time
>>I'm looking for some advice. I have just finished a ground
>>up on a '62 4\4. It has about 140-hp under the hood and I
>>plan to use it on the road and on the track. No Morgan
>>will ever ride but so well, but will this conversion help?
>>Comfort is my main motivation, but the traditional shocks
>>like to come loose and rattle. What are the pros and cons
>>of this conversion? Money? Can I make the mounting
>>brackets at home? Thank you for your time!
>
>Various people make a tubular damper conversion including the factory
>and several agents.
>
>The best one for my money, (and the one I bought!), is designed and made
>by Rutherford Engineering here in the UK, although Melvyn Rutter sells
>one that looks very similar for GBP176.50 plus VAT(17.5%). (line drawing
>in his sixth edition catalogue).
>
>As far as I am concerned, the conversion has made the car ride a little
>better, but as I have a 2 str with 4 str rear springs, you only really
>notice when the car is well laden. So far as maintenance is concerned, I
>do 10,000 miles a year and although I have checked everything for
>tightness, nothing has come loose in two years.
>
>I haven't found a down side- although I guess a purist will object.
"Purists" shouldn't object. That's the way the factory builds them
nowadays.
Rutherford's conversion is excellent. Brian knows what he is doing.
>From the racing point of view such a conversion is essential. Also a
Panhard rod at the same sort of price.
The ride quality will vary according to how you set the "dampers". I
would recommend Koni adjustable shocks - that way you can set it up as
you like.
On a +8, particularly, the difference is incredible. The car actually
goes round the corner in one line instead of a sequence of arcs!
However, you'll notice the change on any car. It just sits there with
that extra degree of confidence.
If you are serious about the track part there is an alternative that was
first put together by Rob Wells at Libra Motive in the famous MMC 11.
Instead of putting a bar across the chassis on which to mount the top of
the shocks you build an "A" frame up on the *inside* of the wheel arch
(between the wheel and the inside of the arch) from the side rail for
the top mounting. This has the advantage of allowing the shock to have a
more vertical (or whatever you want) plane. The tops of the "A" frame
can be linked by a crossover bar for extra rigidity, but that is not
strictly necessary.
Several of the UK race cars have (or had) this mod and it worked very
well. 'fraid my ASCII plotting is not good enough to illustrate it - but
I hope you get the general idea.
Martin Kurrein The older I get the faster I was.
mograces@mkurrein.co.uk
http://www.mkurrein.co.uk/mog1.html - The Morgan Motor Company Challenge
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