The ball joints are still there on the old trucks, just not the same. The
pitman arm has one on it, the steering arm has two (one to the drag link and
one to the tie rod) and the tie rod arm on the passenger side to the wheel
has one. The balls go into either tie rod or drag link with a spring and
ball socket that is secured with a large screw. They are there alright. Mine
are worn enough that I felt they need replaced.
Glad someone is getting something outta my .errrr... pain! hehehe!
Deve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Byron Schluter" <b_schluter@yahoo.com>
To: "Deve Krehbiel" <dkrehbiel@kscable.com>; <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 29, 2000 10:27 PM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Frame Painting (final)
> Deve,
>
> I like reading about the progress you are making on
> your truck. I am confused as to what ball joints you
> are talking about. Chevy trucks didn't use ball
> joints until the early 60's.
>
> Byron
>
> --- Deve Krehbiel <dkrehbiel@kscable.com> wrote:
> > Well, after etching primer, epoxy primer, lots of
> > sanding and scraping, I
> > applied the Urethane Satin Black topcoat today. I
> > did 3 medium coats and was
> > surprised that it applied better than the primers. I
> > guess maybe I am
> > getting the hang of the paint sprayer finally
> > because I had little or no
> > runs in the topcoat. What I find I will sand and
> > buff out after it dries. To
> > paint a frame, it worked best for me to stand it up
> > on its side with a
> > sawhorse on each end, then pull it down to a 45
> > degree angle with a 2x4
> > propping it up in the middle so it doesnt fall. In
> > this way, you get 3 very
> > very small areas that arent exposed to the paint and
> > the ability to get all
> > areas of the frame very easily. When you are through
> > with the first side,
> > simply pull the frame over the other way and prop it
> > on the other side. This
> > angle really made it easier than laying flat. I
> > learned this the hard way. I
> > cant begin to tell you how nice that frame looks! Is
> > it worth it to tear
> > your old truck apart clear down to nothing? Well, if
> > you get satisfaction
> > out of a very thorough job, then it definitely is! I
> > don't regret it for a
> > minute after looking at the results. So, the frame
> > is done and in this
> > process I have also been doing the other associated
> > tasks.
> >
> > The leaf springs have been re-arched (Atlas Spring
> > and Axle in Wichita, KS)
> > where they also RIVETED new clips to the springs
> > making them look exactly as
> > original. I had them leave the clips open at the top
> > so that I can take them
> > all apart for individual priming and painting. They
> > also replaced the
> > kingpins and as soon as I get replacement ball
> > joints, they will change them
> > too.
> >
> > The rear end was pondered over and advice was
> > received and it was decided to
> > have a good auto shop overhaul the rear end. They
> > had some of the tools I
> > don't, I have never attempted this, and a very
> > knowledgeable friend says its
> > a major pain to do. What I needed was a very very
> > thorough job of cleaning
> > the sand out of both the tube and the axles due to
> > my overzealous
> > sandblasting. I then of course wanted new seals,
> > bearings, bushings, etc
> > installed and felt they had the expertise that I
> > didnt. It isnt back yet,
> > but will be next week.
> >
> > So, the brake drums are turned, wheel bearings
> > replaced, and I have lots of
> > work in bead blasting, cleaning, priming and
> > painting all of the above so I
> > can put all of it on my new frame. This project is
> > moving along quite well
> > despite some of my false starts and inexperience.
> > Hope this helps someone..
> > one of these days I will find the time to get all
> > the pictures up on the
> > web.
> >
> > I might add this level of perfection isnt cheap. The
> > axle company charged me
> > $350 for the total job (kingpins, and leaf restore
> > (included replacing the
> > two main leafs on the front, re-arching, and all new
> > clips on all 4
> > springs)).. the rear end will run me about $200...
> > and Chevy Duty got about
> > $1300 from me in stainless steel brake lines, wheel
> > bearings, every brake
> > item imaginable, cab sheet metal, and many other
> > misc. items associated with
> > the chassis restoration. I'm sure you frame-uppers
> > will tell me that this is
> > all normal expense but feel free to state your
> > opinion. Just the three rims
> > I need ($25 each) and tires ($88 each) and a few
> > misc used items are going
> > to cost me another $600 or so. I'm very glad I can
> > take my time with this
> > project and actually earn the money as I go! Its a
> > major outlay in time and
> > money to do the job right but I'm having lots of fun
> > doing it!
> >
> > Deve
> > 50 3100
> >
> >
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built
> > between 1941 and 1959
> >
> Do You Yahoo!?
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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