I would not exceed the pressure rating for the system. 20 pounds is way too
much.
Newer cars and trucks have 16 pound systems. Our older trucks are 4 or 7 pound
systems. You are asking for trouble using pressure like that. Our old trucks
were
not made to handle that kind of pressure. In my old shop, I wouldn't even
pressure
test a system up to its cap rating. pressure testing like that can create
problems
that you are trying to prevent. Leaks may not show up under water. Watch the
pressure guage and at 7 pounds, it should bleed down about a ½ pound or less a
minute or two.
"dph55@pdq.net" wrote:
> Here's what I have done to test heater cores. Take a piece of heater hose and
> make up a tee pipe fitting with a threaded bushing which will accept a
> schraeder air fitting just like a tire fill fitting. Put some air pressure on
> it (2o psi or so) and dunk it under water. If it is leaking it will show up
> real quick.
>
> Dave Handleu
>
> >===== Original Message From "RonaldGivens" <RonaldGivens@msn.com> =====
> >Howdy,
> >Can someone tell me how to check my heater control valve for leaks, or any
> >other problem I may not know to look for, before I put it back on.
> >thanks,
> >ron givens
> >51 gmc suburban
> >
> >
> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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