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Re: [oletrucks] Horn wiring....AD trucks....12v

To: "Hanlon, Bill" <Bill.Hanlon@COMPAQ.com>,
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Horn wiring....AD trucks....12v
From: "tcape" <tcape@weblnk.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 11:46:05 -0400
Thanks to everyone for all the info on wiring a horn.  My horn has never
worked on my '47, and this gives me some good instructions for fixing it.  I
have two questions.....what additional steps are needed in rewiring a horn
on an AD truck that has been converted to 12 volts?

The PO installed an aftermarket horn button on the underside of the steering
column.  How can I tell if he pulled the wires out of the steering
column....or just bypassed the steering column to install the aftermarket
horn?  Many thanks!
Tom Caperton
47-2nd 3100....in Whiteville, NC

----- Original Message -----
From: "Hanlon, Bill" <Bill.Hanlon@COMPAQ.com>
To: "'Mike Suriano'" <climbandmaintain@yahoo.com>;
<oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 10:18 AM
Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Horn wiring


> The horn is a high current device.  The horn switch in the
> steering column is not.  In order to solve this problem
> a relay is used.  On a TF truck, the relay is on the
> engine side of the firewall, near the driver's side
> hood hinge.
>
> One terminal of the relay connects to some point in your
> electrical system that is hot all the time.  The second
> terminal connects to the horn.  The third terminal connects
> to the horn button.  The big question is which terminal is
> which.  If your lucky the relay may be marked.  Something
> like BAT, HORN.  I'm never lucky.
>
> If you have an volt-ohmmeter you can figure out which terminal
> is which.
> a. Unhook all three wires from the relay.
> b. Use the ohmmeter to find the pair of terminals
> that show continuity.  Mark one of the pair as
> terminal 1, the other as terminal 2.  Mark the third
> terminal (the one that had no continuity to
> terminal 1 or 2) as HORN.
> c. Connect terminal 1 from step b to ground.
> d. Switch the ohmmeter to DC voltmeter mode.
> e. Connect + lead of voltmeter to the HORN contact
> on the relay.
> f. Connect the - lead of the voltmeter to ground.
> g. Set the voltmeter range to measure 12 volts.
> h. The voltmeter should read 0v.
> i. Touch a wire with 12v to terminal 2 while observing
> the voltmeter.  There may be a small spark.  You
> may hear/feel the relay pull in.
> If the meter reads 12v
> mark terminal 2 as BAT
> mark terminal 1 as BUTTON
> If the meter reads 0v
> mark terminal 1 as BAT
> mark terminal 2 as BUTTON
>
> Disconnect all the temporary connections from steps a. thru i.
> and wire the horn like this:
>
> Connect BAT to the battery.  Needs to be hot all the time.
> Use large wire, at least 12 gauge.  10 would be better.
> A good place to connect to would be the starter end
> of the positive battery cable.  Most FLAPS carry crimp-on
> connectors with a large enough "hole" to fit over the
> same stud that the battery cable connects to.  If your
> wiring kit has connections for horns use them instead.
>
> Connect HORN to the terminal on the horn.  Again, use
> large wire.
>
> Connect BUTTON to the wire in your steering column.
> Not as much current being carried here.  16-18 gauge
> wire is OK.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Suriano [mailto:climbandmaintain@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2000 8:12 AM
> To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
> Subject: [oletrucks] Horn wiring
>
>
> Can someone please explain to me how to wire the horn?
> I have the complete harness (Chevy Duty) all hooked up
> but for the life of me can figure out how the horn
> hooks up to the steering wheel. I have the a terminal
> that goes to the horn and one ending inside the cab.
> I assume that I need to run a wire from there to the
> horn button? How does this thing attach to the
> steering wheel? I've looked over the manuals and I can
> find a picture of it at all. Can someone help me out?
>
> Thanks,
> Mike
> Clueless on Cape Cod
>
> =====
> 1959 Chevy Apache
>
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