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Re: [oletrucks] Starter

To: <Passnb4U@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Starter
From: "John Rockefeller" <dbr@powerweb.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 13:03:17 -0500
I'm having the same problem here.  It's time to rebuild the starter!  I'm
waiting till the snow flies and the truck gets put in storage to do this. 
Or you can take it to be rebuilt.  My starter and generator are both going
in to be rebuilt this winter.  Good luck.

John "Rock" Rockefeller
1949 3100 "Eeyore"

----------
> From: Passnb4U@aol.com
> To: Spectatin@aol.com; oletrucks@autox.team.net;
old-chevy-truck@egroups.com
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Starter
> Date: Sunday, October 15, 2000 12:35 AM
> 
> In a message dated 10/14/00 5:58:18 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
> Spectatin@aol.com writes:
> 
> > I know I'm showing my mechanical ignorance here but here's my question:
 
> Our 
> >  starter is making an ugly grinding/clunky sound,  it will still get us

> >  started but it sounds terrible.  Do I need to; a) look for a new
starter  
> b) 
> > 
> >  look for  parts to rebuild it or c) have it rebuilt?  Thanks for your
help
> >  
> >  Michelle 
> 
> 
>   First I'd clean all connection from the battery to the starter, verify
no 
> bad cables...ect...clean up the grounds good too.
> 
>   If the battery has a good charge, and you still have a growl...you'll
have 
> to do one of two things...
> 
>   replace it
> 
>   or take it apart and see what's wrong.....There's a lot you can do to 
> "recondition" it...replace brushes (if needed)...do a "shadetree" trun on
the 
> cumalator, clean all the rust off the field pads and armature (careful of
the 
> mica inbetween the armature), check the field coils to make sure they are
not 
> open (need a ohm meter) and check the armature to cumalator wires to make

> sure they haven't slung solder.
> 
>   You can also replace the bushings at either end as well.
> 
>   Everything I mentioned above can be done with a inexpensive meter, hand

> wrenches, sand paper, emery cloth, screw driver, propane torch, solder, 
> pocket knife, hacksaw blade, wire brush.  And a drill press comes in
handy, 
> but not necessary.
> 
>   If the Armature is shorted internally though...it'll need to be
replaced, 
> also, if there is evidence that is been rubbing on the feild pads, it
should 
> be turned or replaced...this is where it begins to make sense to get the 
> rebuild.
> 
> 
>   Mike (who took the day off to "recondition" his starter just last 
> Wednesday...because he REFUSED to pay NAPA's price for an exchange)
> 
>   Hey...that's what sickleave is for:)
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

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