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Re: [oletrucks] '49 3100 SOLVED - well almost...help.

To: "Holly and Chris Mills" <scmills@tntech.edu>,
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] '49 3100 SOLVED - well almost...help.
From: "Jays Mail" <jaybaker@ruralnetwork.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 08:31:14 -0700
I have a couple manifolds laying around I'll take a look and see wich
direction you need to go with it and if all else fails I can sell you one of
those manifolds. I think someone suggested tapping it back and forth on
either end of the rod I think that will probably do it.
-----Original Message-----
From: Holly and Chris Mills <scmills@tntech.edu>
To: old-chevy-truck@egroups.com <old-chevy-truck@egroups.com>;
oletrucks@autox.team.net <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, January 04, 2001 9:33 PM
Subject: [oletrucks] '49 3100 SOLVED - well almost...help.


>Well I'm a bit more edu-ma-cated tonight after giving the exhaust manifold
>flapper a very good looking over.
>
>Without a shop manual my understanding of the flapper was all wrong.
>
>I understood what the flapper did but not how it was actuated.
>
>Now I know.
>
>I thought the rod from the gas pedal moved it or 'persuaded' it and the
>spring maybe gave the flapper the final orders whether to be open or
closed.
>
>Now I know it is wholly automatic and connected to nothing except the
>counterweight on one end and the spring on the other.
>
>Every thing looks intact and in good order EXCEPT that it is stuck - VERY
>stuck.
>
>Now where I need some help is knowing whether it is stuck open (and heating
>the carb) or closed. No wait - I know it's stuck closed because the carb is
>either freezing up inside or the poor atomization of the fuel is causing my
>engine's missing and studdering.
>
>What I REALLY need to know is which way to try to persuade this thing to
>rotate! I first want to try to persuade it with a screwdriver and some
>spray oil before I start pulling manifolds (and breaking studs!).
>
>If your head is where the radiator is, and looking at the counterweight on
>the flapper shaft, then on a clock face the counterweight would be pointing
>at 1 o'clock.
>
>Now is it supposed to rotate towards the block or towards the fender?
>
>I can make the counterweighted end of the shaft creak a little so either
>the flapper or the end of the rod where the spring is the binding portion -
>I think. I've already proven to myself that the spring end of the shaft is
>pretty weak so I don't want to twist with my pliers there anymore.
>
>I thought I might try to drift the shaft forwards and backwards and mix
>that with some rotation persuation.
>
>If I had a torch I might try a little heat but in the name of not burning
>my truck to the ground I'll hold off on that solution.
>
>All of the tuneup adjustments seemed to make things better but this is the
>final chapter and very necessary in this cold winter weather.
>
>I did have the carb about as rich as I could (for best idle) but it was
>simply a band-aid for the cold carb and turned my normally reasonably
>frugal truck into a dinosaur juice glutton.
>
>I leaned it back out and it seems to be better but the idle is crummy (cold
>carb).
>
>On the subject of carbs I found a catalog that identified the Zenith, the
>Rochestor and the Carter as all being found on my model truck. So I can use
>either carb I have. Good to know.
>
>So can anyone help me rotate this shaft the right way from the start so I
>don't break anything (more <grin>)?
>
>Thanks a bunch everyone!
>
>
>
>CHRIS in Tennessee
>scmills@tntech.edu
>ICQ: 5944649
>
>'78 Westy (maybe some CIS injection,Corvair, turbos --- hmmmm...)
>'65 Beetle (Type IV powered)
>'99 CR-V 5 speed
>'49 Chevy 3100 Pickup
>'81 Honda CB900C
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

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